Can we use the rope method instead of the compressor to hold the valves in place? Is there a complete write up on this job from start to finish from setting up the compressor to setting the cam timing before removing the cams to setting the valve clearances. Has anybody used this type of valve compressor? Will the valve fall into the cylinder even if the piston is at TDC?



Will this compressor work?



Can I use the one below to pressurize the cylinder when I remove the valve



Thank You

 

The valve cannot be dropped into the engine if the piston is at tdc. It can fall about an inch and the piston will hold it.

The rope can be very effective, just be sure you are at tdc of the firing stroke, so the rope cannot get caught in the valves.

 

If you take out the cams, the valves remain closed since there are no lobes acting on them, just make sure piston is at TDC. That spring compressor works just fine. If you have a compressor you don't need a rope. Change the valve stem seals while you're in there, they're cheap and easy to do.


It's pretty straight forward, disconnect battery, pull valve cover, and spark plugs, back off the rocker arm adjustment screws. Pull cam caps in sequence, remove cams. Hold the rockers together with rubber bands, lift them up, or remove the rocker assembly. Put the piston down, stuff rope then lift piston until it stops, or just hold piston at TDC and put in about 80psi with the compressor. Stuff all oil drain openings with rags. Tap retainers with a socket and hammer to loosen them, then use the spring compressor, keep a magnet handy to catch the keepers and retainers. To pull the seals use spark plug pliers, they have a rubber boot and won't scratch up the valve stems. Then tap the new ones on with a deep 10mm socket and a hammer, tap not smash. To install, make sure the spring is in the proper orientation(spaced out coils go on top), place retainer over the spring, compress the spring and carefully install the keepers, then uncompress the spring. Once installed, tap the valve stem tip directly overhead to make sure everything is seated properly, do not hit the valve stem at an angle or you can bend it.


Then put it back together, make sure the timing marks are perfectly aligned, cams are a little finicky to install, pushing them to the back of the cylinder head helps. Cam cap bolts are 16ft lbs and should be done in sequence. The caps have numbers and an arrow, the arrows should point to the front of the car, and the numbers are 5 at the back and 1 at the front. Do a valve adjustment, double check your work when finished, to make sure there's no loose jam nuts or anything. Put on valve cover, spark plugs and enjoy.

Make sure you use a star pattern on the VC bolts.

pm me if you have any questions.

 

There are specific torques and sequences for tightening most of the items mentioned in this thread. "Star pattern" doesn't do it. Find the maintenance/service manual. Has drawings even non-mechanics like me can understand. Get a toque wrench and do it right.

-- Chuck

 

Wow thats the information I was looking for. I have decided to replace all the retainers. Thank you

 

Done it. Not that hard actually. Exactly as Bill said TDC and you have no worries. I used a dowel to mark the TDC of the stroke. 1 did drop but I just grabbed it and with 2 fingers pulled it back up and the air pushed it back into place and held it.

Used this. VERY COOL TOOL and works very well IMO.
https://store.snapon.com/Valve-Keepe...--P645403.aspx

 

There's a torque sequence for the cam caps(starting at the center, and working your way out), the valve cover bolts are 9ft/lbs, it should be tightened in steps, and since there's only 5 a star pattern works just fine.

 

The recommended tightening pattern is done in "two or three steps" starting, indeed, with the center bolt on the intake side but isn't exactly what I consider a "star" (like lug nuts). Pretty easy to just torque to the diagram. I'm assuming it's important since it's specified. Page 6-23 in my 2007 shop manual; page 6-54 in the on line 2003 PDF manual. Torque is technically 8.7lb-ft but that's just the math based on the actual metric 12 n-m spec.

The main consideration seems to be tighten the center, then the ends in stages and don't over-tighten.

-- Chuck

 

Can someone help me and post a picture of the tightening sequence for the cam caps and also the valve cover? Thanks. I will place lots of pictures on this thread since it will be my first time doing this on this kind of car.

 

Page numbers posted above. The 2003(?) PDF copy of the service manual is on line and the diagram is the same for all years.

-- Chuck