Are you saying use the scissor jack between the body and UCA to push the entire suspension down?

Or use a long block of wood between the LCA and body instead?

I'm not saying your way is wrong. In this case, it works since he's going from stock height to stock height.

If he were lowering the car, he'd need to clock the bushings anyway...but in this case, he's not.

 

I could be off base here, but I'm not so sure I like the idea of using a jack against any sort of body panel. A pry bar against a subframe component, sure...but beyond that, sounds a bit risky.

 

Yeah, a bit. It takes a hundred+ LB's to get those bushings moving. A lot more if you don't disconnect the bar.

Idk. I don't love prying or forcing stuff to move.

 

I just looked in the Honda/Helms service manual (you’d think I would’ve started there) and it says to disconnect the lower ball joint when replacing the front shocks. Can’t recall if it said the same for the rears but I can check tomorrow.

The service manual does not mention to do an alignment after the front shock replacement procedure, whereas the front lower and upper control arm replacement procedures clearly state check alignment as the last step.

I’ve seen prior posts where it’s said to be a pain to disconnect the lower ball joint...but is it really that bad? Thinking maybe it’s the best way if it avoids having to worry about prying on control arms or even clocking bushings (which doesn’t sound bad but..whatever is best overall).

 

The front lower ball joint bolts is screwed on by 2 M12 screws. You don't even have to break the taper.

 

Not if you have the right tools. I changed both front lower balljoints in an hour.

 

Which tool would you suggest? I did some searching for the OEM tool documents in the service manual; some websites report it is discontinued, and those that show in stock want $210-250.

 

Why do you want to break the front ball joint taper?
It bolts in, bruv...a 17mm socket and ratchet is the tool you need. And a torque wrench for reassembly, obviously.

If you do want to break the taper for some reason, or buy a ball joint tool for future use...

You can buy a ball joint separator anywhere. Just make sure its can house bigassed ball joints. The rears are a normal size. The front ball joint stud is massive.

 

The OTC one they sell on flea bay for $50 has served me well for dozens of ball joint replacements. Including the front lowers with a little adjustment. Just don't use an impact on it and you'll be fine.

 

It does seem a bit odd that the manual calls for disconnecting the ball joint itself rather than the 2 bolts connected to the knuckle (assuming what’s what you’re referring to). I like to think that whoever wrote this thing from Honda did it that way for a reason...but who knows.