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Up to two seconds with the PCX-004, belive me. I first get aware of the problem right after i changed the oil filter. The problem went completly away as i tried a different oil filter!
I allways used the Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 for the last two years. It is a very thin -40 oil, almost a -30. To me, there is no other conclusion as that some drain back valves at the PCX-004 where bad.
Thats why i want to steer away from th PCX-004, looked for alternatives and started to search for Information about bypass valves etc. Oh, by the way, back when i was active in the german S2ki Forum, i made a poll. Roughly 1/3 of the owners there also reported about problems with the oil light. Allmost all of them used also the PCX-004.
To me, it seems that there where a bad batch of filters. This could happen. This is not a Proplem. The main problem is when this happens you usually just change the filter and use a different brand of filter. Problem solved.
Thats not so easy with the S2000....
But as i wrote meanwhille i am convinced that you can use different (aftermarket) filters as long as they dedicated Honda filters, have the Honda gasket system (Double metall ring, P-shaped rubber gasket) and as long as you use the S2000 specific torque. But dont follow my advice i am maybe wrong!!
However, i hope that this proplem is finaly solved with the new -306 Filter. I will buy one and try it as soon as the car is back on the streets.
So many variables here. Do you guys fill the filter during the install or leave it dry? I use a 0W-30 Mobil1 and have yet to try the new filter. Usually the light goes away, I would guess a second (-with a thunk, you can feel it more than hear it) after start with a dry filter. I always felt the "thunk" was the oil getting slammed on reaching capacity in the filter.
2. Delay (1-2 Seconds) at the Oil light when the engine was siting over days: 39 % (!)
3. Delay (1-2 Seconds) at the Oil light when the engine is hot: 22%
Almost all german S2000 owners use the PCX-004 filter, most of them use 5w-40 oil.
There are two Honda filter designs. The one for the S, and the one for every other Honda. Either one will spin onto any Honda. Either one will provide basic filtering capacity at loads that normal engines see.
Honda's official view is you can use either filter on the S. But...
People have had filters spin loose on this car, and lost engines, and had engine fires.
Other people have used the 'wrong' filter for years and haven't had an issue.
There is a common saying you can't prove a negative. Having more than one filter spin loose proves using a filter not torqued down can destroy this engine, but years of people using the wrong filter without issue proves nothing (other than perhaps they have been lucky).
Also, if either one works, why did Honda go through the effort of designing a specific filter? This smells like engineers designing something for a reason, and a bean counter later deciding to override it for some reason. Maybe they calculated the number of engines expected to be lost, and decided it 'didn't matter'. Well it matters to me. One engine lost is too many, even if its not mine.
It sounds like Mann is just regurgitating Honda's latest corporate adviceon the matter. That they would say the manufacturer decides the torque value betrays their misunderstanding of the issue. You shouldn't torque the regular filter to the same value as the S specific one. A proper answer would be torque the filter based on design of filter.
If you insist on using a filter without the gasket with the hump and the metal rings, then you need to add a safety wire kit to keep it from spinning off. Stop saying whoever has gone without doing this without issue. You can't prove a negative!
Then your only worry is the bypass valve not holding up to the S pressure. Certainly any filter that isn't using the S specific design is designed for every other Honda application.
Keep in mind you're following bean counter advice, not engineer advice.
@ Car Analogy:
You are probably right, it is risky to use a different filter.
But could it be possible that maybe the only thing special thing about the PCX-004 / - 306 compared to other honda filters is the printing with the S2000 specific torque on it?
As i wrote previous, it is hard to get valid information about the setting and function of the bypass valve. What is if the guys at "Bob is the Oil guy" are right about the bypass vlave?
Comparing the bypass vlaves of the -004 with the new -306 it looks like the guys at "Bob is the oil guy" are right when they say that the bypass valve size and pressure setting is only chosen by the filter manufacturer to match the filter media.
It sucks that there is no information from the filter manufacturers about this.
Last edited by Mr.Matchbox; 01-26-2021 at 02:51 PM.
Looks like German auto forums have similar misinformation issues, as US forums.
You guys are much better. Much more information, more knowledge about engines and mechanics, more expirence in wrenching, and much, much more polite.
Thats why i bug you all with my bad english.
This oil filter controversy is like most oil controversies. Maybe, a bit too much thinking.
I figure if Honda designed a filter specifically for the S2000. Assign a certain few aftermarket manufacturers to build them to Honda's specs. AND the darn thing is still available --- buy the darn thing and use it, as intended. I mean, how many times do you change the filter, in one year? Twice, three times max? Use the 004 or 306, as intended, and forget about it.
NOW, if you can't find the 004 and 306, go with what is the best substitute in your area. Tighten with a torque wrench. Remove the stubborn stuck filter with a ratchet and filter wrench. Be cognizant, of the high RPMs and the oil pressures S2000 runs at which the Civic or any other Honda (except their motorcycles) does not. Figure out the safety solutions and use them.
There! Wasn't that easy? Sorry for the sarcasm, the Devil made me do it.
Last edited by windhund116; 01-26-2021 at 03:16 PM.
Yes, but i want get rid of the delay in the Oil Light... this annoyes me to death. As you may notice.
I hope the -306 solves the problem.
maybe disconnect the fuel pump and turn the engine over till the light goes out. The engine will turn over at a slower speed, reducing risks of prolonged (1-2 sec) "dry" start. I "prime" my car this way every spring before taking out of winter storage (I also have a clutch interlock bypass).
darcy
01-26-2021, 01:32 PM
