If it's not seized jbweld the two bolts together, worked when my friend broke his bolt on his 350.

 

Huge shout out to cleenyc99... Didn't work with a variety of pliers but I didn't even think of using vice grips. After a few painfully minutes, the little bugger finally came out. I will get a new bolt tomorrow and install it.

I also noticed that one of my ignition coil plug clips was broke (previous owners fault). Its on the front ignition coil. I did some research and found this https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/112...y-replacement/ along with this one https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/108...#entry23207950.

Has anyone installed these or should I just zip tie the first one since the other three are fine?

Disaster averted

 

Either connector or zip tie, whichever you're comfortable with. Although I have a broken injector clip and I push my car pretty hard, never been a problem really, literally held on with a black rubber band. I'll get around to it eventually.

 

Zip tie for temporary. Just leaving it in there it can be loose which if it unplugs completely will result in poor running condition

But you definitely want to replace it before it can possibly result in a damaged coil pack

 

How difficult are they to replace? All that is broken is the stupid plastic clip. Don't know why they used that awful plastic.

After reading the forums, I'm not sure what goes into replacing it. One post made it seem like you can just replace the outer plastic (which is what is needed for me)

 

the clips always brake. there not hard to replace need a long fine pic to release the clip that holds the pins in, take a look at the diy. take your time and take your old connector off first so if you bake the clip its no big deal because it's being replaced anyway. a good light helps. by the time you get to the forth one you will be abele to do it in 5 mins

 

It's fairly easy to tackle with a pair of crimps, wire strippers and a release pin (or paper clip)

If you can get some extra pins, extra wire and extra water proofing insulation and you can practice assembling it

 

Had my fair share of broken valve cover bolts in the '90s. Lesson I've learned from back then - never use a torque wrench nor a large wrench nor a lot of force with them. Only hand tighten them, and use your ratchet by holding/gripping it closer to the rotational center and Not all the way on the handle's end (ie: less leverage).

Broken bolts are a pain. The worst is when it breaks below the hole and also breaks off giving a "diagonal" top (making it very difficult to center a drill bit on it because it keeps slipping off). Yours doesn't look too bad though and is flat on the tip/top. Craftsman make several diff sized extractors. They work good.

 

I also suggest spraying some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench (or something similar) onto the stub thats left and let it soak down around the threads----that will penetrate down into the small space and lubricate the threads between the bolt and the head and to make it easier to remove no matter which method you choose to use to remove it

 

Well you should use a quality torque wrench and for bolts with relatively low torque ratings I would switch to a micro level torque wrench that has more tolerance for error.

Good rule of thumb is to take the torque range of a torque wrench and lop off 10-20% off the max and min ratings depending on the quality of the tool and stay within the 85-70% of the torque range.

As far as when I have seen broken low torque bolts and fasteners you don't always have to use an extractor. Most of the time of the bolts are ferrous, you can use a magnet with enough strength to get it out to a point you can get some pliers on it and then twist it out. Or tap it out with a small punch and a light hammer