After a just-failed attempt to fashion my own snorkel out or some bendable metal stuff, I found my worst problem is that there seemed to be zero clearance between the front top of the radiator bracket and to bottom of the hood in that area. Closing the hood just squashed that sucker flat!

Then I look at pictures of installed Spoons and others on this board (made of thicker material than my metal), and they seem to fit just fine. Am I missing a modification to the hood underside, or what?

This also made me wonder how many square inches of intake area these factory snorkels could possibly have at that crucial point, and whether anyone else worries that they may be restricting air too much at that point.

Thanks,
Richard

 

do you happen to have any pictures of your setup

 

Here is another thread that covers this:https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=44756

 

Rusler:

Sorry, but no pics, as after my cheapo effort failed, I threw it away. But I can describe it. I used the stock cover between grill top and radiator brace, and simply took off the two fasteners on it right below the stock intake. Then I shimmed out the radiator brace side of the cover. about 2" (limited by hood clearance). Actually drove the car that way with nothing else in brutally hot weather, and got less low RPM bog, quicker pre VTEC accelleration, all by butt dyno. But I also got 12% better gas mileage. I figure I must have been getting more and cooler air to the intake, even without a sealed connection.

Then I tried the next step and tried to build a sealed connection from the stock intake to drop down behind the grill out of something like heavy duty drier vent (4") I flattened this material out to an oval annd sealed it to the inside of the stock intake with rubber material, and bent it down into the area behind the grill. I thought I had flattened it enough in the area where the tubing crossed over the front of the radiator brace. But when I closed the hood and opened it again, the portion of the tube that crossed over the radiator brace front was squashed so flat that no air could have gotten through.

So if I had a picture, it would show only a short length of ovaled chrome - looking flex pipe with a crimp in it.

But this flex pipe is SO thin that it has almost no material thickness, whereas factory made snorkels do have some wall thickness, and follow approximately the same path as my "cheapo" attempt. This made me wonder how they are able to achieve any air opening at this "pinch point". The cross section of the stock intake and "L" is about 10 sq. in.

Does anybody know how many square inches the smallest air path cross section of some of the factory snorkels have at this "pinch point", and how they avoid being pinched to nothing to clear the radiator brace?

Thanks,
Richard