long story short, i need to replace my hub because the 4 of 5 "screws" on my hub got shaved off.

according to the Helms manual, ill need a special tool to remove that hub

how would i go about obtaining that special tool?

for those that could help me and have the helms manual, its on pages 18-10 to 18-11

HELP please=]

 

I think what is needed is a 3 arm pulley remover, 6" size. You can buy one for like $20, but I suggest you take the hub and the Advance Auto Parts (Kragen, Pepboys, Autozone, etc.)- bought studs ( I believe they are M14x1.5, not sure about the length) to a shop that fixes cars, not just services them. They will have a hydraulic press to press the studs in and out.

When I bought alloys for my '96 'tegra, the hubs on wheels were really thick, so I needed longer studs. I replaced them without ever taking off the spindle, just had to rotate the hub to a point where stud would back out without hitting anything. Then I tapped them in, put the wheel on, tightened the lugnuts in sequence, tool a short slow drive, retorqued them, and was allset.

 

As mentioned in the Helms, you need new wheel bearings too.
The bearings get destroyed taking the hub out of the knuckle to replace studs.
Use new axle nuts (you could swap them L/R to get a fresh part of the lip to punch, but it might not be ok)
If this is for the rear, clean and grease (Molycote, or simular) those axle splines and thread and use the updated axle nut torque (220 lbf/ft)

Use a bal joint remover with a wide enough fork and grease the ball joint boot to avoid damage.
Leave the nut on the end of the ball joint thread to protect it from crushing.

Search for ball joint removal / remover.
There are several posts with pics.

 

There's an old mechanic's trick to separating the ball joint with a hammer:

The part the ball joint bolt goes in is the part that gets hit with a good 2-pound hammer. I've done it several times when swapping out my shock absorbers. Just hit that part on the side of it, put tension on the arm with the ball joint itself so it wants to disengage, and just keep whacking. Penetrating oil/spray helps, but spray a half an hour prior.

As far as avoiding the hassle of replacing ball bearings, just go out to a junk yard, and get a used one. Just check how freely it spins (not loose at all), freeplay ( zero ), and you're good to go.

 

Kirpich Posted on Sep 21 2008, 06:44 AM
Removing that bearing from the hub will destroy it too.

There is no other way around it, use new wheel bearings because installing them doesn't damage them, removing does.

If you mean: find a second hand knuckle (with hub and good studs) then you're right

Hammering suspension arms is not a very good idea IMO.

 

No, a used spindle will come with bearing, hub, and any balljoint that attaches to the spindle. At junkyards they won't take time to take off balljoints, then re-inventory them, etc. Mine even came with an ABS sensor with a cut wire!

 

does the craftsman 1/2 inch ratchet method work on the s2k?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ

 

Click
this may or may not help

 

ok so i need a ball joint remover/separator...just called the local autozone and they freakin have it for $16.00, i'm going to get it and try it...i shall report back with success or failure.

thanks for the help

 

These are the Special Tools the dealer uses to remove the front hub:
Ball joint thread protector, 12 mm 07AAF-SDAA100
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL0A202
Ball joint thread protector, 14 mm 071AF-S3VA000
Driver handle 07749-0010000
Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
Support base 07965-SD90100
Inner bearing driver attachment, 42 mm 07GAF-SD40200

You can order them through your local Honda Parts Dept or find equivalent tools commercially available
The 28mm Ball Joint remover is made by MAC Tools as you can see by the P/N but you can use any brand that's 28mm