"special tool" needed to remove HUB
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From: Temple City
Originally Posted by jyeung528,Sep 22 2008, 12:58 AM
does the craftsman 1/2 inch ratchet method work on the s2k?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ
does this work for the front and/or rear?
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Originally Posted by leester01,Sep 24 2008, 12:33 PM
These are the Special Tools the dealer uses to remove the front hub:
Ball joint thread protector, 12 mm 07AAF-SDAA100
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL0A202
Ball joint thread protector, 14 mm 071AF-S3VA000
Driver handle 07749-0010000
Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
Support base 07965-SD90100
Inner bearing driver attachment, 42 mm 07GAF-SD40200
You can order them through your local Honda Parts Dept or find equivalent tools commercially available
The 28mm Ball Joint remover is made by MAC Tools as you can see by the P/N but you can use any brand that's 28mm
Ball joint thread protector, 12 mm 07AAF-SDAA100
Ball joint remover, 28 mm 07MAC-SL0A202
Ball joint thread protector, 14 mm 071AF-S3VA000
Driver handle 07749-0010000
Attachment, 72 x 75 mm 07746-0010600
Attachment, 78 x 90 mm 07GAD-SD40101
Support base 07965-SD90100
Inner bearing driver attachment, 42 mm 07GAF-SD40200
You can order them through your local Honda Parts Dept or find equivalent tools commercially available
The 28mm Ball Joint remover is made by MAC Tools as you can see by the P/N but you can use any brand that's 28mm
I personally separated ball joints on my '96 integra, '01 S2000, and '99 Ford E150 with equal success, and consequent reliability.
The part that goes around the ball joint 'finger' with the thread is the one that gets hammered with measured blows of a 2lb hammer, while some tension is maintained on the part to be separated. In other words, keep putting the tension on the 2 parts that need to come apart. In my instance, the weight of suspended suspension was tension enough.
The trick is to shock the 'collar' part into creating momentary , split-second deformation to the 'collar'. Immediately after impact, the collar returns right back to its original shape, simply because of the nature of metal it's made of (steel). If it was something soft, like aluminum, lead, or copper, then yeah, I would never even consider it.
I'm in Spartanburg area, SC, if you were close by, I could do it.
Good Luck!
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From: Torrance
Originally Posted by Kirpich,Sep 24 2008, 06:10 PM
Are you kidding me? An experienced mechanic at your local mom and pop type of service station can do as good of a job as the dealership with all these fancy super-specialized tools. Imagine a DIY type of guy having to buy all these tools for every undertaking? It would cost hundreds of dollars!
I personally separated ball joints on my '96 integra, '01 S2000, and '99 Ford E150 with equal success, and consequent reliability.
The part that goes around the ball joint 'finger' with the thread is the one that gets hammered with measured blows of a 2lb hammer, while some tension is maintained on the part to be separated. In other words, keep putting the tension on the 2 parts that need to come apart. In my instance, the weight of suspended suspension was tension enough.
The trick is to shock the 'collar' part into creating momentary , split-second deformation to the 'collar'. Immediately after impact, the collar returns right back to its original shape, simply because of the nature of metal it's made of (steel). If it was something soft, like aluminum, lead, or copper, then yeah, I would never even consider it.
I'm in Spartanburg area, SC, if you were close by, I could do it.
Good Luck!
I personally separated ball joints on my '96 integra, '01 S2000, and '99 Ford E150 with equal success, and consequent reliability.
The part that goes around the ball joint 'finger' with the thread is the one that gets hammered with measured blows of a 2lb hammer, while some tension is maintained on the part to be separated. In other words, keep putting the tension on the 2 parts that need to come apart. In my instance, the weight of suspended suspension was tension enough.
The trick is to shock the 'collar' part into creating momentary , split-second deformation to the 'collar'. Immediately after impact, the collar returns right back to its original shape, simply because of the nature of metal it's made of (steel). If it was something soft, like aluminum, lead, or copper, then yeah, I would never even consider it.
I'm in Spartanburg area, SC, if you were close by, I could do it.
Good Luck!
Yes,you do not need all these tools for the job and you can buy or fabricate your own tools.
This is what seperates the dealerships from the independent shops
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From: SoCal
yeah so the local autozone only has the pitch fork thing, and that stuff does not work, or at least i can't get it to work.
i wish i were the freakin hulk so i could just rip the ****damn hub off
i really really don't want to buy the actual ball joint remover from honda for freaking $150, and i can't really understand that youtube video with the nut (sorry i'm stupid)
sigh, anybody kind enough to describe how you popped the damn cursed bloody shit off, in laymen terms?
i wish i were the freakin hulk so i could just rip the ****damn hub off
i really really don't want to buy the actual ball joint remover from honda for freaking $150, and i can't really understand that youtube video with the nut (sorry i'm stupid)
sigh, anybody kind enough to describe how you popped the damn cursed bloody shit off, in laymen terms?
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Kirpich,Sep 20 2008, 08:44 PM
There's an old mechanic's trick to separating the ball joint with a hammer:
The part the ball joint bolt goes in is the part that gets hit with a good 2-pound hammer. I've done it several times when swapping out my shock absorbers. Just hit that part on the side of it, put tension on the arm with the ball joint itself so it wants to disengage, and just keep whacking. Penetrating oil/spray helps, but spray a half an hour prior.
As far as avoiding the hassle of replacing ball bearings, just go out to a junk yard, and get a used one. Just check how freely it spins (not loose at all), freeplay ( zero ), and you're good to go.
The part the ball joint bolt goes in is the part that gets hit with a good 2-pound hammer. I've done it several times when swapping out my shock absorbers. Just hit that part on the side of it, put tension on the arm with the ball joint itself so it wants to disengage, and just keep whacking. Penetrating oil/spray helps, but spray a half an hour prior.
As far as avoiding the hassle of replacing ball bearings, just go out to a junk yard, and get a used one. Just check how freely it spins (not loose at all), freeplay ( zero ), and you're good to go.
maybe school is seriously messing up my brain.
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From: SoCal
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=887859
explains the youtube video in detail, i'm linking it for future search references
...i shall give this a shot.
explains the youtube video in detail, i'm linking it for future search references
...i shall give this a shot.
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From: SoCal
well the ball joints aren't made the same way on the s2000 so i can't get it to work...
called the dealer and asked if i could rent the ball joint remover (shot in the dark, i know) and they said (surprise) no. i also can't just tow the car there, have them pop off the joints, then tow it back to finish the job lol
now what...
called the dealer and asked if i could rent the ball joint remover (shot in the dark, i know) and they said (surprise) no. i also can't just tow the car there, have them pop off the joints, then tow it back to finish the job lol
now what...
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From: SoCal
well the distance isn't the same...i tried using a wider ratchet but i dont really have very wide ratchets lol
you actually live really close to me, i'm in hacienda heights. do u know how to do this? lol
you actually live really close to me, i'm in hacienda heights. do u know how to do this? lol