I did a search and found this, My Webpage, but I still have a few questions.

Before I remove the slave cylinder, do I need to bleed it first?

After removal, what grease do I need to use on the ball socket?

Is it really possible to apply grease to the other locations stated just by going through that opening and without removing the tranny?

When I do bleed the fluid, must I make sure there is always fluid in the line? Meaning, I am not draing it, but simply trying to get rid of the old fluid.

Thats all I can think of for now. Thanks

 

So I bled the lines and put a little grease on the ball socket even though there was already some on there. Now, it feels worse than before. I'm going to redo it tomorrow and try to get some grease inside the bellhousing but in the meantime, DOES ANYONE have any thoughts/ideas?

 

You may have left air in the line. Also did you use Honda super high-temp Urea grease, or some other grease?

 

i used a high temp grease not from honda. i plan on redoing it tomorrow but this time i'm going to drain the line then bleed it. i'm also going to remove the rubber thing and try to grease all the spots recommended in the faq. what throws me though, is that the clutch started acting up instantaneously..there was no buildup to how it feels!

 

Be sure to put some grease on the fork where it contacts the release bearing, but don't over do it. I had this issue a few years ago and after greasing it up, I have not had the problem return. Clutch action is very smooth now.

 

stoffius Posted on May 9 2007, 07:06 AM
That will only increase the chance of trapped air in the slave.
Doing that means removing the slave from the transmission.
That gives you the chance to push the piston all the way back in and gravity bleed while holding the bleed valve more upwards then it would be when it was still on the transmission.
Works wonders - it did for me.

And what clutch / brake fluid did you use?
DOT3, 4, 5.1?
NOT DOT5!!

 

Thanks. I used DOT3. After reading most of what I found in the search, I decided there was no reason to use anything else. I will also take your advice and not drain it completely. I'll just redo and push the piston to gravity bleed as well. I'll get around to it later this evening and post results. In the meantime, I'm going to continue cursing each time I shift.

 

So I just finished the above and its no good. I bled the line again and did the gravity bleed as well. Greased a few contact points. But when I took the boot off the pin that is pushed by the cylinder, I noticed fluid inside it.

Turns out, fluid is getting past the o-ring and causing me to lose pressure and that would explain why the pedal sticks. Tomorrow I'm going to buy a new one and install it. Anyone have any tips?

 

I had the same type of issue last week. Turned out to be a leaking slave cylinder. Replcaed the slave, re-greased the forks using the urea grease from Honda and then bled the fluid.

Night and day difference. Unreal how easy it is to shift now.

 

Problem solved!!!

Thats exactly what I did and yes, night and day difference. I replaced the slave and it made a noticeable difference, BUT I think it was greasing the fork completely that made the bigger difference. I only wish the clutch wasn't so damn easy to push now!

If anyone wants, I can do a write-up on this. Had I known what to do and/or look for, I could have saved a LOT of time.