...and the search function is not up yet.
I remember reading about the possibility of over torquinq the bleeders; I was under the assumption that I needed to first screw them all the way and then torque to 32-40 in-lbs. I had the screw 3/4 inside, passing the 'hard' part with the locking compound, and then , the head comes off.
I think I can drive to a machine shop tomorrow - probably the screw is in the 'closed' position. I feel stupid. Anything I can do until then?

 

Check the bottom of this Web page for procedure for removing a broken Speed Bleeder:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/News.htm

BTW, they don't go in all the way.

 

print out the instructions and if its possible, bring the old non-speedbleeder so they see the shampfer (how it tapers down) so they dont drill that out. believe me... been there, been down that road before.

and the bleeders dont need to be torqued at all, they just need to be finger tight, some of the larger ones are hand tight and the wilwoods on my car... more like half a finger tight.