Thinnest oil
I am running Mobil 1 0W20 for about 10k miles now
with no apparent bad effects. I do not vtec more than
once-twice a day and usually run around 3k rpm in
5th gear. Oil pressure is around 25-30psi at idle,
90-120 at WOT. Engine runs 5-10F+ cooler than before.
Gas mileage is up 2-3 mpg. Just thought you'd like to know.
Please also read http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
cheers
with no apparent bad effects. I do not vtec more than
once-twice a day and usually run around 3k rpm in
5th gear. Oil pressure is around 25-30psi at idle,
90-120 at WOT. Engine runs 5-10F+ cooler than before.
Gas mileage is up 2-3 mpg. Just thought you'd like to know.
Please also read http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
cheers
not to burst any bubbles but i think we should(well, i should) stick to oem recommend viscosity. of course there's nothing wrong right now but i am not willing to bet my engine 100k down the road.
you can't really see internal wear without tearing the block, and when you have to it's kind of late.
but again, that just me
you can't really see internal wear without tearing the block, and when you have to it's kind of late.
but again, that just me
How are you measuring oil pressures and engine temps? I've read AEHaas's motor oil basics many times, love it and agree with almost all of it. There's a UOA on here of someone that runs M1 5w20, UOA was only for about ~1800 miles but it looked great. Doesn't surprise me at all that you haven't run into issues in 10k miles with the 0w20. I say keep using it. Everyone else that says they should stick to OEM 10w30 recommendations either doesn't understand or hasn't read AEHaas' examples.
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Originally Posted by 90crvtec,Aug 29 2007, 04:22 PM
How are you measuring oil pressures and engine temps? I've read AEHaas's motor oil basics many times, love it and agree with almost all of it. There's a UOA on here of someone that runs M1 5w20, UOA was only for about ~1800 miles but it looked great. Doesn't surprise me at all that you haven't run into issues in 10k miles with the 0w20. I say keep using it. Everyone else that says they should stick to OEM 10w30 recommendations either doesn't understand or hasn't read AEHaas' examples.
the last 5k miles (odo 5000) a tech put 10-30w oil in the car
ran for 5k miles and customer comes in for an oil change and asked why the car ran sluggish and had no power..
i did some back tracking on R.O. and found out that the last time it was in.. the wrong oil was billed out and put in..
i read a little bit bout AEHaas pages but eh..
if it was true bout
10W-30............100......................10
0W-30..............40 ......................10
0W-20 vs 10W-30
should really close but what could explain for what happen with the camry and why does toyota say you have to use the 0W and not the 10W anymore
maybe i could wrong but oh well.. i dont think i would run anything other than what its suppose to be in the car
if changing the oil or add this and that could increase MPG
car companys would do it.. so the sticker on the window shows more not less to help sell more cars
newer cars are switching to a thinner or lighter oil because of the well the engines are being made these days
they have a tighter/ lesser tolerances for piston 2 wall clearances among other things as well therefore it calls for thinner or lighter oil
thats my reason for it but again i could be wrong
if the piston clearances would be the problem, the car would burn
oil. The car burns absolutely NO oil whatsoever. Less than a 1qt every
5-6000 miles (have only had a chance to do it twice so far).
Also, I agree that in general it is good to stick to factory specs.
There is a large bell curve that needs to be accommodated by the
manufacturers when recommending oil. What I am basically saying
is that if the pressure/temp is right and you don't seem to burn oil
you might just have a good engine that allows the thin oil.
Oh, and I forgot to mention this: the car runs close to 85k miles and
compression is 195-205 even on all cylinders.
oil. The car burns absolutely NO oil whatsoever. Less than a 1qt every
5-6000 miles (have only had a chance to do it twice so far).
Also, I agree that in general it is good to stick to factory specs.
There is a large bell curve that needs to be accommodated by the
manufacturers when recommending oil. What I am basically saying
is that if the pressure/temp is right and you don't seem to burn oil
you might just have a good engine that allows the thin oil.
Oh, and I forgot to mention this: the car runs close to 85k miles and
compression is 195-205 even on all cylinders.



