hypforlife32

hey guys i have a 2001 ap1 that just turned 90k miles. I had a clutch install recently and i don't think they used a high temp grease on the clutch components because the car felt amazing when i got it back and then 1500 miles later the clutch pedal felt terrible and the transmission felt extremely notchy. now this is what he did, he took the slave cylinder off and pulled the clutch fork out as much as he could be put a VERY light coating on components he could without risking getting any on the clutch disk. The clutch pedal feels great but high rpm shifting still feels terrible, top of 3rd grinds. Top of 3rd gear NEVER grinded before this clutch change. could it be coincidence or would an improperly greased throw out bearing cause crappy high rpm shifts? I am going to pull the trans myself on my friends lift next Saturday and do things correctly in which i should have done it myself in the first place...great opportunity always come up after you get shafted...never before.

the clutch setup is a SOS with lightweight flywheel and OEM throw out bearing...When i pull the trans out can i reuse the same throw out bearing with the CORRECT urea high temp grease?

Round 3

is the throw out bearing making any noise?

hypforlife32

No it is not making any noise, no rattle or chatter. but the top of every gear is very like sticky like, even 2nd, 3rd grinds, the top of 4th is also a lot sticker then before as well.

Round 3

try this bud

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/370...-clutch-pedal/

hypforlife32

I did that already, along with a clutch bleed. I just have a weird feeling something is causing all of my gears to be very hesitant in very high rpms. And I know for a fact the shop did not use high temp grease at all when lining up the clutch componets

SilverS2kF22C1

That is likely your issue... You need to lube the spline shaft to keep everything moving or it will hang... Pulling it out is the only way to fix it... Shop should do it for nothing or a reduced cost for not doing the job correctly....

hypforlife32

okay, my buddy and i have a lift next saturday morning from 7am to 5pm. Can pulling the transmission be done in this amount of time with two people? i have a shop manual on the whole procedure of dropping the sub frame and such. i have done about everything on this car except a trans removal and install. is there anything good tips and tricks or short cuts that i could do or use to cut time or something i should be extremely care and cautios to make this go as easy as possible. thanks guys.


Also can i reuse the same throwout bearing? just pull it out clean it up and use the correct grease?

MurderOUS865

^I would like to know as well... ill be pulling my trans in the next few weeks because my car actually pulls to 6 mph in neutral on the ground. We think its a stuck synchro, trans rebuild here we come....

RedY2KS2k

If you plan ahead, study the manual ahead of time, you should get it done easily in that time frame. Just make sure that you can do all the work needed from the top before lifting the car. As I remember it, the manual isn't organized according to above or below the car.

If I remember correctly, the TSB054 for the clutch buzz paid 5 hours to one, presumably skilled, person.

As for advice, I have only this to offer. You must remove the UPPER starter bolt. I'd recommend that you make sure that you can also see the LOWER starter bolt before removing the upper bolt. It's fairly common for someone to come on the board, ask why they can't separate the transmission from the engine, then eventually come back to report they removed the lower starter bolt, not the upper. If you actually look at the flange the bolts goes through, you cannot mistake the lower bolt for the upper.

Many people curse the upper starter bolt; some break their knock sensor and cost themselves $100 or so extra. When I did mine, the upper starter bolt was about the tenth-ranked PIA in the whole affair. I removed the intake tube and alternator, per the manual. With about 20" to 24" of extension with a wobble at the socket end and a flashlight, the upper starter bolt is a piece of cake. Use the long extension with wobble from above the car, where the alternator used to be.

For what it's worth, every bolt holding the engine to the transmission was painted red on mine. Yours may be different, but I'd look for that.

When removing the intake tube, there are a couple of small vacuum lines. Mark these, or you'll get a Check Engine Light upon a cold start. The manual isn't clear on what goes where, so mark them with tape or something so you can put them back where you removed them from.