Juniorx

That's so odd. Even with the ap1 retainers the sound still remained?! This is when it wasn't there before right? I thought I was paranoid and thought the sound may have been there before and I just intuitively just listened to it much carefully than before and picked out odd sounds. This seriously has me wondering if what the above poster mentioned and if something went wrong with the actual installation process? Some speck of dirt or something.

Thanks for updating so quickly. I'll be following and continuing to enjoy my car since my numbers looked ok too... If I find out anything I'll update.

If anyone has any other thoughts at this point, please let us know haha.

joelzeller

Hi everyone, I've been chasing a ticking noise for a few months now too. Symptoms seem the same.

Ticking starts up around 1 minute after cold start, like clockwork.
I recently swapped to AP2 retainers/cotters (5/8 were cracked... phew!) <- i remember there being a slight tick before, but I don't think it was this loud.
I used the rope in cylinder + Lisle magnetic tool and light hammer taps to remove the cotters. I made sure to perfectly center the tool over the valve and retainer to make sure I didn't bend any valves. Used the spring compressor tool above to install.
The ticking sounds similar to yours in frequency and tone. I've posted this before and consensus is that its normal noise.. Valves/Injectors/Etc.. I've listened to other S's before and have not heard it this pronounced.
Car runs & drives perfect, no bogging or loss of power at all.
Tried adjusting valves 3 or 4 times (middle/loose end of the specs) after doing the job, no change in noise.

I do have a very intermittent slight puff puff from the exhaust during warm idle (maybe 1 or 2 puffs every ~5 seconds or so). Not sure if this is related, but adding anyways.
Fuel trims + 02 values are all perfect.
Compression check from PO was 215/220/215/225. I will double check soon.
Also looking to do a leakdown test soon.

After searching though countless posts on S2Ki, I found one where he had a tick after valve adjustment that slowly went away over time. Theory was that the valves needed time to "seat" in their new homes? I do not know enough to say how valid this is...

For now, I'm planning to just drive the car and see if it gets better/worse!

I hope we find the issue!

Jim Bravo

After my 3rd valve adjustment, I temporarily gave up and just drove it. I put 500 miles on it, and the sound didn’t change. I don’t think any seating is needed. Maybe whatever was causing the noise in that situation wore in/down enough to stop making the noise.

I’ve had a few s2000’s now, and can’t remember any of them(including this one) sounding much different from any other 4 cylinder Honda around the valvetrain.

Well, the comment from @Mr.Matchbox about oil beneath the cam cap bolts kept me up last night, so I pulled the valve cover off this morning and plan to blow out the threads this weekend. I’m contemplating just driving the car for a few hundred miles after I try that to see if the noise is lessened. After that, I’ll probably just suck it up and drop it off at a dealer.

Mr.Matchbox

Have you done the same mistake as i did and get some of the rocker arm assemblys messed up and puzzled them back togehter?

My engine is whipser quiet after the retainer upgrade, as original. I carefull blow out every thread hole where a bolt go in to get rid of oil befor reintalling the camshafts. Thats why i came up with my question......

snmalone

Blowing out the oil of the holes is interesting...do you really think that could be an issue if theres some oil at the bottom left? Since i have a similar noise issue i will give this a shot as i have to swap a bolt anyway...

Billman250

I have done countless retainer jobs, and never once have I blown out any of the holes. Some of those holes have oil coming up through them (the ones that control Vtec pressure) So I strongly believe doing so won’t accomplish anything.

I have also never encountered any hydraulic resistance in any of the bolts ever.

Juniorx

So what do you think is causing these "symptoms"? I'm at a loss at how to proceed anymore. Seems to be working just fine for me and others above.

Just took it out for a drive again today and sound seems to have decreased since I've had them replaced a few months ago too.

snmalone

Billman, when you swap camtowers or cams...do you loosen all the valve adjustment screws when putting everything back together? Is that necessary or just for piece of mind?

Mr.Matchbox

I am not Billman, but i have removed and put everything back together without loosening the valve adjustment screws. The trick, and it is important, is to take your time! Turn the bolts allways only 1/2 turn and work along until finished. Use the order from the workshop manual for thigteing the bolts as guide.

It is of course "better" and 100% safe to loosen the valve adjustement screws, because you have to adjust valve leash when you finished your work nevertheless.

This "1/2 turn" method is described in some Suzuki and Kawasaki motorcycle workshop manuals. On some bikes with bucket + shim valve train there is no other option to do this job, you allways have full valve spring pressure against the camshaft when you remove and install them.

Billman250

I never loosen the lock nuts. But it is critical that the caps be pulled down carefully, and evenly, to avoid cracking the top caps.