dang thats a sound of a scuffed bore!? thats loud! but thankfulli mines not loud like that.....

i jus now saw something on the head, the bolt to turn the cams got some atv glue like stuff on it hmmmmm...i dont remember seeing this on my old head...ill post a pic of it later tonight to see what you guys think, have to go to work now

 

ok maybe this is the reason for the noise? maybe its not holding the chain tight? i hope its not stripped to where they HAD to use the rtv

 

thats the actual cam gear bolt that connects the timing chain from the bottom end, and then with a reduction gear spins the cams. Hmm, why would that be RTV'd?

 

i wonder too but could this be a reason why its ticking if its not the valves? maybe its not tight or stripped, making reason for the rtv

 

have you popped the valve cover and looked? have you put checked the actual valve clearance

 

no i havent, never had time to...but since i dont work 2moro ( ) i will chekc the chain and if its good im going to get the valve adjustment done

 

Turns out ive got scuffed bores. But get this, its only on the two centre cylinders. Bearings and rings are prefectly fine. They're testing injectors and a few other things, but they're kinda scratching their heads as to why not all four cylinders are scuffed.

What usually causes scuffed bores? I've read oil level/pressure can contribute.

Billman (or anyone with any ideas) if your out there, chime in buddy

 

Hey, Illez,

Don't know why they RTV'd the bolt. Maybe to keep it from "weeping" oil. If you didn't want it to come out, you'd Loctite the other end where it screws into the head.

And I don't know about clicking TCT's but I have scuffed a few bores for "obvious" reasons. I ran un-coated after market pistons one time. The bearings and rings were fine too but the pistons and bores were shot. It seems that the few folks I've talked to who put after market pistons into these motors, just sleeve them.

BTW the other time I blew most of the oil out of the engine one day at WOT and didn't notice until the run was over. Scuffed all of the bores from, I would guess the low/no oil condition. Took out most of the bearings too, but that's another story.

And as long as you've got the cam cover off, why not adjust your own valves? It only takes a few minutes a screw driver and a 10mm wrench. I don't even use a feeler guage. Listen it's like this... of course you have to have the cam followers on the "back side" of the cam where they aren't pushing the valves open. The adjustment screws move .029" in or out with each revolution, so just loosen the 10mm jam nut, and run the adjuster screw down until you feel resistance. Then back it out a bit more than a 1/4 turn for .008" clearance, and 1/3 of a turn for .010". Probably not the perfect solution if you and your competiton are .002 of a second apart, but just fine for the street.

Be sure to do it on a cold motor. Takes about 20 minutes. Just DON'T FORGET TO TIGHTEN EACH JAM NUT AFTER YOU DO EACH VALVE!

Oh yeah and if you "bump" the engine over with the starter you may see a bunch of oil coming out of the hole at the front passenger side of the cam cover mating surface (behind the VTEC solenoid). I usually just screw a 1/8" pipe plug into there while doing the adjustment. JUST DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE IT!! To be really safe use a 3" piece of 1/8" pipe with a cap on it instead of a plug. Tough to forget since it's really in the way. And a bit more messy as it will spill some oil but nothing compared to leaving the plug in by mistake.

Have fun, and keep the shiny side up!

Jim