I just wanted to bump this up... with some new pics and an update on the car.

Two weekends ago we swapped another f20c in. We did it engine then tranny like suggested. Unfortunately, it took about 12 hours because of two major stupid delays. There were two of us, then we gained one more person about halfway through.

We had bolted up the tranny, raised the crossmember, bolted up header and downpipe and put in the starter only to realize that the shift fork was NOT in the tranny. So we had to undo that stuff and slide the tranny back enough to put the fork in.

Then after getting everything bolted up and good to add fluids, the pan was leaking. There was a hairline crack around the drain plug. So we had to swap pans. Other than that everything went great and it fired up first try.

For the bad news... it only lasted 3 days. While he was sleeping a 'friend' took his car out for a joyride, grinding gears, breaking stuff, and eventually the car did not run anymore. Thankfully though, the police were involved, and Honda is looking at it this time. But with suspected tranny/engine and possibly rear diff problems.. it may end up totalled. Only time will tell.


But I disassembled the original block all the way because I was bored and snapped some pics of the busted stuff.

Crank


Crank


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 2


Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2

 

daymn!

 

so billman... I am going turbo in about a month... I would like to replace those oil squirters... can you make a thread that would walk me through it? Also what are the Honda part #s of the items I will need to be replacing... I have a 2001 AP1 so I feel the update is needed... do you agree? Thanks for any and all help you give... I trust your advice 100%

Wish I lived in NY... lol

 

The install of the squirters would seem to be pretty easy.

You would just have to remove the oil pan, and then remove a metal shield... then you have access to them. It looked like you would have to take off the oil pickup, but nobody ever said anything about that so I guess you just need a nice flex head, a steady hand and patience. Thats actually one of the reasons I took this one apart was to see how to get to them.

Before I autocross my car anymore, Im going to be swapping mine out.

 

I assume it will be pretty straight forward... it just seems that billman has pictures of EVERYTHING and you know what they say... a picture is worth 1000 words... plus I am trying to find the part # for the updated squirters... I was browsing the online parts store and have noted that if I am in fact looking at the correct bolt/squirter that the part # is no different on a 2001 AP1 vs a 2003 AP1... so I was curious if I was looking at the right item... thanks

 

The item number that I got out of another oil squirter thread on this forum is:

15290-pcx-000

Havent ordered any yet, but I assume its correct or I wouldnt have written it down. I think they are like $10-11 each.

 

nice pics brandon. who's camera?

 

My little Cannon SD100... finally got it back from the warranty work.

 

I'm pretty sure there is already a thread on the the oil squirters.

Couple of things: Cylinder 1 is a pain because you can't remove the oil pick up. You need a flex drive. And you also have to be careful because the bolts have a fine thread and you can easily cross thread them.

I'm not sure how important torque settings are. I did mine snug and with loctite and have had no problems (at least not related to the oil bolts).

 

From all the threads I have read, and specifically from what Billman says.. the torque DOES need to be pretty darn close, since if you torque it more or less, then the holes for the oil will be in different locations.

A bit off topic, but I was driving today in the rain... its amazing how much these cars get squirly. I figured it was because I was on 225's before (bought it like that), but now I am on 245's and a bit of gas breaks her loose. And this is on new tires.