Tips to separate transmission from engine
#1
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Tips to separate transmission from engine
I dropped by engine/tranny from below using a lift. I used a hydraulic table and two of the table wheels are locked. Per the photos, I've also supported the tranny in two places. I've removed all of the tranny bolts. I'm trying to separate the tranny with no success. I've used the pry point shown in the photos to get about 1/4" separation on the side with the pry point, but that's it so far. Any suggestions on how to do this are appreciated. It's my first time doing this work.
Pry point on right side
Pry point on right side
The following 2 users liked this post by Billman250:
latelifecrisis (08-06-2022),
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#3
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That was it. Thanks. Not an easy one to get to. I noticed that the sensor in front of the starter had its wiring hanging front it and maybe a wire broken. Is this the knock sensor and can I just buy a new one and replace it?
#4
EDIT: i got mine here, i'm pretty sure its the same damn sensor i had lying around from a b20b i just bought . https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=5108&jsn=1
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larry resnick (08-07-2022)
#5
Knock sensors for different engines look same outside. But surely not same internally.
Knock detection is detecting a specific frequency of sound. Strike a complex shape of metal hunk with hammer,it rings at a specific frequency. Strike a different shaped hunk of similar mass of similar metal, it'll ring at a different frequency.
This isn't a place I'd be looking to save a few bucks using a sensor meant for a different motor. Best case ecu sees knock that isn't there, pulls timing and you needlessly lose tons of power. Worst case, ecu doesn't see knock that is there, and keeps adding timing, and destroy your engine.
Surely someone will chime in and say they've been using knock sensor meant for a different motor, and 'haven't had any issues'. How would you know if engine is slowly destroying itself inside? Before it shows symptoms it could be causing incremental damage.
Just use the correct part. This is a case where I'd rather have an aftermarket part meant for this motor than an oem part meant for a different one. Obviously oem part for this motor is best.
Knock detection is detecting a specific frequency of sound. Strike a complex shape of metal hunk with hammer,it rings at a specific frequency. Strike a different shaped hunk of similar mass of similar metal, it'll ring at a different frequency.
This isn't a place I'd be looking to save a few bucks using a sensor meant for a different motor. Best case ecu sees knock that isn't there, pulls timing and you needlessly lose tons of power. Worst case, ecu doesn't see knock that is there, and keeps adding timing, and destroy your engine.
Surely someone will chime in and say they've been using knock sensor meant for a different motor, and 'haven't had any issues'. How would you know if engine is slowly destroying itself inside? Before it shows symptoms it could be causing incremental damage.
Just use the correct part. This is a case where I'd rather have an aftermarket part meant for this motor than an oem part meant for a different one. Obviously oem part for this motor is best.
The following 2 users liked this post by Car Analogy:
latelifecrisis (08-10-2022),
spider2k (08-07-2022)
#6
Knock sensors for different engines look same outside. But surely not same internally.
Knock detection is detecting a specific frequency of sound. Strike a complex shape of metal hunk with hammer,it rings at a specific frequency. Strike a different shaped hunk of similar mass of similar metal, it'll ring at a different frequency.
This isn't a place I'd be looking to save a few bucks using a sensor meant for a different motor. Best case ecu sees knock that isn't there, pulls timing and you needlessly lose tons of power. Worst case, ecu doesn't see knock that is there, and keeps adding timing, and destroy your engine.
Surely someone will chime in and say they've been using knock sensor meant for a different motor, and 'haven't had any issues'. How would you know if engine is slowly destroying itself inside? Before it shows symptoms it could be causing incremental damage.
Just use the correct part. This is a case where I'd rather have an aftermarket part meant for this motor than an oem part meant for a different one. Obviously oem part for this motor is best.
Knock detection is detecting a specific frequency of sound. Strike a complex shape of metal hunk with hammer,it rings at a specific frequency. Strike a different shaped hunk of similar mass of similar metal, it'll ring at a different frequency.
This isn't a place I'd be looking to save a few bucks using a sensor meant for a different motor. Best case ecu sees knock that isn't there, pulls timing and you needlessly lose tons of power. Worst case, ecu doesn't see knock that is there, and keeps adding timing, and destroy your engine.
Surely someone will chime in and say they've been using knock sensor meant for a different motor, and 'haven't had any issues'. How would you know if engine is slowly destroying itself inside? Before it shows symptoms it could be causing incremental damage.
Just use the correct part. This is a case where I'd rather have an aftermarket part meant for this motor than an oem part meant for a different one. Obviously oem part for this motor is best.
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windhund116 (08-09-2022)
#9
#10
Nope, just clear the CEL.
The following users liked this post:
windhund116 (08-09-2022)
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