Ok, many have figured this out but some still struggle with it and I have had a couple ask about it, and since I was doing the clutch I thought I would add some pics to the normal half arsed description I give on how to put the top bolt back in. I have done this way a number of times and it is easy this way, so figured I would share.

So the bolt is WAY back in there of course. And the bottom starter bolts comes out easily from the bottom side. The top is easy to get out once you find it, but some struggle getting it back into place.

If you shine a light down between the intake runners and peer around (assuming you have the alternator out of the way) you can see the bolt. Here, it is already removed, but the bolt will have a red head on it.


Now, here is the key part. You need an extension or combination of extensions to reach the bolt from the front of the motor (through the spot the alternator sits). Also, do not just remove the alternator top bolt and swing it out of the way, just remove the alternator It takes another minute to do so and gives you more visibility. Take your time to shine a light down there and find the bolt so you can clearly see it.

Below I have marked up a pic of what I did with explanation below it.


Now, you can use different types of universal joints on your extensions and some hold their position better than others. I am using standard old style universals here as many may be using and thus, the tape method really helps. I will explain each arrow, left to right.

First arrow (far left): I have placed a piece of electrical tape around the end of the socket just barely folding over the edge of the flange in the bolt. This holds the bolt in the socket. Most magnetic sockets I have tried end up dropping the bolt as it is too heavy. This method ensures the bolt stays on the socket, but holds loose enough to just pull off once the bolt has started.

Second arrow: This tape holds the socket to the universal adaptor. This way, when you pull the extension to pull the tape free from the bolt head, the socket says with the extension, not the bolt

Third arrow: I wrapped the universal adaptor with a turn or two of electrical tape. This allows it to flex enough to get the bolt in place, but not be floppy so it always just points down.

Fourth arrow: Taping universal adaptor to the extension. Same purpose as the second arrow.

Now, once you have done this, it is all very easy from here.
1) Fish that bolt into the starter hole. Keep track of the knock sensor and do not get caught in its wiring or hit the sensor. It breaks very easily!
2) Thread it in a bit to get the bolt started
3) Pull the socket off to pull the tape free (so it does not get caught under the flange of the bolth when tightened).
4) remove the tape that was on the socket holding the bolt on.
5) place socket back onto the bolt and tighten the rest of the way.

That simple Just always keep in mind to keep the extension angled a bit to the right so you do not get into the knock sensor and damage it. If you DO damage it, just go ahead and pull the starter back out. It is super easy to replace the sensor with the starter out, but you cannot even see it with the starter in.

Electrical tape works very well for this since it has some stretch, especially if you use good electrical tape.

As a general note on the starter, top bolt comes out the top. Remove belt and alternator and the intake if it is in your way. I have an aftermarket intake which frees up that space, but also had it out anyways since I was doing the clutch. Once the top bolt is out, everything else is done under the car. bottom bolt is easy, wiring is pretty easy, then carefully pull it out the bottom. Again, when taking it out and putting it in, be aware of where the knock sensor is and do not bash it with the starter. Once the starter is out, look at the knock sensor is and take note for when you put things back together.

Putting it back in is the reverse, but pay attention to where that little spade connector goes. You cannot see it with the starter in and you have to kind of remember where to start feeling around for it. Work the starter into place, put the bottom bolt in finger tight only for now, put in top bolt as above, get back under the car and tighten bottom bolt and attach the wiring.

 

Thanks for the write up. Another method I picked up from a Youtube mechanic to hold bolts in sockets: Use a papertowel over the bolt head. The extra thickness from the papertowel will hold the bolt in the socket firmly, yet allow the socket to be easily pulled away.,

 

If you ever worked on a German car, even once, then everything on the S is easy by comparison, even the top starter bolt.

Maybe its like the movie that was so over hyped you ended up disappointed, but in reverse. I had heard all the horror stories about that bolt, but when it was time to replace clutch, I found it pretty easy to get that bolt out and back in.

 

I spent more time finding the bolt than removing it. One thing I've noticed, in contrary fashion to the rest of the S's parts the knock sensor has actually gone down in price. You can order it from Japan for like $130 U.S. the real genuine Honda one, not some Hindi second hand imitation, or the wrong one for a Civic. So you should definitely replace it if you're doing the clutch just to avoid headaches.

 

Definitely has not gone down in price anywhere I have looked! I broke mine which is how I know I broke mine trying to cram my arm in position for one of the coolant lines.

2 Local dealerships want $360 for the knock sensor. Hondapartsnow wants $230 and says "its on backorder and we do not have an ETA" and Majestic Honda has it for $222 which is the cheapest I could find one. Rockauto has a cheapo brand that I have heard others say failed on them. They also had NTK but it was going to take longer. NTK was $140. I ended up getting a used one from A Solutions so I would not miss the track day next week.I have the Honda one still coming and will just put it on the shelf once it finally gets here in a week or two. I really do not get why so many aftermarket parts have issues on this car really.

But yep, finding the bolt is the fun one. And this job is super easy. So many had complained about it over time so I figured I would post some tips to do it. Many times people spend their effort figuring out how to get their hand in a spot where you can just utilize the tools to make it easier

The upper radiator hose and some of the other coolant lines are much more of a PITA to do. Honestly, I would almost rather just do the clutch job again than those lol. Mainly just because of the utter annoyance of how they are placed. Only a few inches difference between "this is not bad" and "should I just pull the entire intake manifold?" And to be honest, for some of those lines yes, you should just pull the intake manifold lol.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12593646330...mis&media=COPY

Yes it's genuine.

 

I have a set of these universal Joints with springs. You dont need them often, but they could save your Day.

 

It also looks identical to the NTK ones I have seen, which are the same price. I am always skeptical of ebay sellers and what they are selling. Not hard to reproduce the bag. On the other hand, the NTK may be a fine product. I am trying ot find the pic again, but the pic of the NTK one I saw had that same circled "M" logo on the side of it and I believe the same numbers.

 

This is a good site for ordering OEM parts from Japan

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/honda/30530pcx003

 

Same price too. Amayama is as legit as they come.