I can pull the top starter bolt in 30 seconds. The alternator does not need to be disturbed at all.

If you illuminate the head of the bolt with a long penlight, you can view the “path” from the front that the 14mm swivel and extension will pass through.

 

Age/experience tells me if its easy to remove, and makes something awkward easier, especially something I'm doing for first time, then remove it.

I removed alternator when doing clutch, and it made top starter bolt easy. I also removed airbox when installing billman tct.

Just because billman can do it, doesn't mean I can. Not on first try. But if I did more than a couple, these kinds of tricks would definitely be worth learning.

 

And given I started learning from my mechanic father since I was a child and have worked in his shop at various times, and never have had anyone but me work on my cars, yeah, I can get to it and do it with the alt in too. But, a lot of folks struggle with it and end up breaking the knock sensor as well, so this is an easy way to do it. People can do it however they want. I just thought it would help out some who struggle with it, and I had the car torn apart to do a clutch and various other items so it was a nice time to take some pics to help out.

 

When I did my clutch, I got the top starter bolt out on first try... it was SO easy. I couldn't believe anyone actually struggled doing this. Then I realized it was actually the BOTTOM bolt I had removed... fml.

And then as punishment for my feelings of superiority, when I finally did manage to remove the top bolt, it fell out of the socket and lodged itself into probably the most inaccessible spot in the manifold area. fml x 2. I couldn't get to it till later in the clutch job when the engine was lowered.

BUT, getting it back in was pretty easy after all this experience. It was just a matter of getting a bright portable light in the right spot + some extensions and electrical tape as others have mentioned, and finding the right path for a straight shot to the hole. AND, because I was paranoid about dropping the bolt again, I actually tied some dental floss around the head, so that if I DID drop it I could pull it out.

 

I'm the same way about eBay, too many fake timing belt kits an horror stories on other forums to put any weight into it anymore..
Another site to add to the bookmarks for Overnight Parts from Japan. Thanks!

 

Curious... are Ap1 and Ap2 knock sensors compatible with both Ap1 and Ap2 engines? (I have an Ap1)

Noticed they're diff prices and part numbers.

 

I have seen various comments and questions on that and also have not heard a definitive answer. I "think: the Ap2 is a bit more sensitive but do not quote me on that.

 

best is 3/8 locking extension then 3/8 wobble extension and then shallow socket and ure golden. when its loose separate the extensions then get it out by hand keeping eye on the socket and bolt of course in case it falls

 

AP1 and AP2 are the same, it's the DBW 06+ that are different.