Transmission 'stiff' - not the normal gritch
My transmission shifting is 'stiff' - most especially when cold. But this is my second s2000 ( both 2003 ), my first was much better and even this one ( now 18K ) was better when I first bought it ( 15K ) . Best described as alot of effort to shift, maybe a little worse upshifting, just makes my wrist tired. If I shift slowly I can seem to almost feel something 'catch'. Once I did start it in gear then dumped the clutch forgetting it was in gear. Probably misshifted a couple times but didn't explicitly pound on it. No track time on this one yet, I'm sure it would be frustrating with this problem.
I tried changing fluid again to new Honda stuff, no effect really.
Anything I can do / examine / try short of taking it to a shop? I've yet to take out a trans but have basic wrenching skills.
S2000 - preferred by terrorists eveywhere!
I tried changing fluid again to new Honda stuff, no effect really.
Anything I can do / examine / try short of taking it to a shop? I've yet to take out a trans but have basic wrenching skills.
S2000 - preferred by terrorists eveywhere!
Originally Posted by melonheadr6,Apr 5 2007, 07:37 PM
Try chaning the tranny fluid. Helped a lot for me.
I'd checkout Xviper's guide on the clutch rod adjustment. Play with that and see if the transmission frees up. Otherwise I don't have a lot of suggestions for ya.
Maybe someone can come along with some more ideas.
How about... changing the transmission fluid?

Before adjusting rods I would start with fresh clutch fluid and a proper bleed.
Doing that will insure the clutch is disengaged fully.
As per Billman's instuctions, a gravity bleed with the slave off the transmission with the bleeder valve pointed upwards and the piston pushed all the way back into the cylinder gets rid of all the air.
That also gives you the chance to put some Molycote (or simular) on the Cup & Ball push rod / release fork.
Succes!

Before adjusting rods I would start with fresh clutch fluid and a proper bleed.
Doing that will insure the clutch is disengaged fully.
As per Billman's instuctions, a gravity bleed with the slave off the transmission with the bleeder valve pointed upwards and the piston pushed all the way back into the cylinder gets rid of all the air.
That also gives you the chance to put some Molycote (or simular) on the Cup & Ball push rod / release fork.
Succes!
OK, Well I replaced slightly leaky master cyl AS WELL AS slave cylinder. I dont recall if I had the slave all the way pushed in when I did the gravity bleed, but it seemed not the slightest bit squishy when done. Perhaps another round of bleeding but I'm thinking clutch hydraulics are not the problem - it drove exactly the same. The good news
is I didn't hurt the car or myself in the process.
Any other ideas?
is I didn't hurt the car or myself in the process. Any other ideas?
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