The truth about 90w diff oil
RR -
Thanks for the info re: Amsoil "Turbo" oil... I was hoping it wasnt some purely marketing hype with no redeeming value... at least its good stuff.
Today I took delivery of 6 qts of LE 607. Traveling to Monterey CA on Sunday... 240 mi. of the best roads on the west coast... wish I had more time to heat up the rear diff to dispose of the Mobil 1 oil and replace it with the 607... but I will do that on the return... when the diff is HOT.
Thanks so much for your info etc. etc.
Best wishes .... until then....
Thanks for the info re: Amsoil "Turbo" oil... I was hoping it wasnt some purely marketing hype with no redeeming value... at least its good stuff.
Today I took delivery of 6 qts of LE 607. Traveling to Monterey CA on Sunday... 240 mi. of the best roads on the west coast... wish I had more time to heat up the rear diff to dispose of the Mobil 1 oil and replace it with the 607... but I will do that on the return... when the diff is HOT.
Thanks so much for your info etc. etc.
Best wishes .... until then....
You weren't kidding when you said the LE607 would stick to anything.
Talk about gooey!!!
I changed the fluids on the S today, using LE8130, MT-90 and LE607. I got one of those kick-a** pumps from Griots, and it worked great. I wound up having to cut an inch off the end of the outflow tube though, in order for it to clear the cross member behind the diff when inserting it into the diff fill hole. It just wouldn't quite slip in...
Many thanks for your continued informative postings here; I've learned a lot.
Talk about gooey!!!
I changed the fluids on the S today, using LE8130, MT-90 and LE607. I got one of those kick-a** pumps from Griots, and it worked great. I wound up having to cut an inch off the end of the outflow tube though, in order for it to clear the cross member behind the diff when inserting it into the diff fill hole. It just wouldn't quite slip in...
Many thanks for your continued informative postings here; I've learned a lot.
tomcatt - yes, it is stringy - and a messy deal to work with - I hope you did the warmup trick - I had to seal the threads on the Griot's pump with PTFE pipe tape, and even then, a bit of LE607 worked its way through the threads, as the pressure needed to push the syringe was pretty great. I found kerosene the best stuff to clean it with. Plus, any residue works to keep the o-ring on the syringe and the chamber well lubricated.
That stringiness may be an advantage, esp during cold starts . It nicely addresses the negative comment made by the Amsoil guy (incorrect I might add) that it would take something like 22 minutes for a typical 90w to flow freely. Well, that may be true for some, but as I said before, LE607 has a lower pour point at
-11degF.
But the stringiness means what? Right, it means that the mechanical movement of the gears will pull the lubricant onto them, where they will cling - so the differential is protected immediately by LE-607's viscosity and strong additives. By comparison, a 75w90 synoil will flow freely and do a fine job of lubricating, but because its physical properties are different, it does not climb the gear teeth as tenaciously, so I wonder if it provides any better peformance at startup at all. So other than having more parasitic drag (which i do not dispute), in EFFECT LE607 may not be at any disadvantage, unless it is exposed to temperatures so cold that the material becomes an inert glob, like silly putty. All bets are off then, but since we have been fully appraised of the low-temp issue and are going in with eyes wide open, that should not be an issue if you and others who have selected LE607 have done so wisely.
I guess in a year we will see - there will either be abject delight, grudging respect, complacency, or a lynch mob demanding to know RR's home address (many, like you, have it already).
I say again - I am using this stuff myself, based on my own findings and analysis, but guarantee nothing - and if another "attractive" gear oil face comes along, I will be a "ho" and get it on with that new player. And all props to he/she that brings it to our attention.
As Ferris Bueller said, "Life moves pretty fast".
That stringiness may be an advantage, esp during cold starts . It nicely addresses the negative comment made by the Amsoil guy (incorrect I might add) that it would take something like 22 minutes for a typical 90w to flow freely. Well, that may be true for some, but as I said before, LE607 has a lower pour point at
-11degF.
But the stringiness means what? Right, it means that the mechanical movement of the gears will pull the lubricant onto them, where they will cling - so the differential is protected immediately by LE-607's viscosity and strong additives. By comparison, a 75w90 synoil will flow freely and do a fine job of lubricating, but because its physical properties are different, it does not climb the gear teeth as tenaciously, so I wonder if it provides any better peformance at startup at all. So other than having more parasitic drag (which i do not dispute), in EFFECT LE607 may not be at any disadvantage, unless it is exposed to temperatures so cold that the material becomes an inert glob, like silly putty. All bets are off then, but since we have been fully appraised of the low-temp issue and are going in with eyes wide open, that should not be an issue if you and others who have selected LE607 have done so wisely.
I guess in a year we will see - there will either be abject delight, grudging respect, complacency, or a lynch mob demanding to know RR's home address (many, like you, have it already).
I say again - I am using this stuff myself, based on my own findings and analysis, but guarantee nothing - and if another "attractive" gear oil face comes along, I will be a "ho" and get it on with that new player. And all props to he/she that brings it to our attention.
As Ferris Bueller said, "Life moves pretty fast".
RoadRage,
I left the bottle of 607 in the sun for a couple of hours, and that did the trick. It actually flowed pretty good in the pump, I was expecting a mollasses consistency but it was more of a heavy syrup. I didn't have any problem with the pump leaking; the outflow end seems to be permanently attached, I couldn't get the metal cap to unscrew no matter what I did. I didn't want to break the plastic, so I removed the other end along with the plunger and filled the pump that way. All in all it worked pretty good.
Here in Chicago it does get down to 0*F several times each winter; anything below -5*F is a rarity. Given that the pour point is -11*F, I think that by driving the car properly when starting out, meaning keeping speed and acceleration rates low until proper operating temperature is achieved, I won't have any problems with insufficient lubrication.
I had the same thought about the stringyness when I saw it yesterday. The way the drips kept making spiderwebs made me think that if this stuff continues to have that behaviour when cold, it can only mean that lube will be carried along while under motion. I'm not a lubrication expert, that's just a deductive observation.
*grins* And I know where you live!!!
I left the bottle of 607 in the sun for a couple of hours, and that did the trick. It actually flowed pretty good in the pump, I was expecting a mollasses consistency but it was more of a heavy syrup. I didn't have any problem with the pump leaking; the outflow end seems to be permanently attached, I couldn't get the metal cap to unscrew no matter what I did. I didn't want to break the plastic, so I removed the other end along with the plunger and filled the pump that way. All in all it worked pretty good.
Here in Chicago it does get down to 0*F several times each winter; anything below -5*F is a rarity. Given that the pour point is -11*F, I think that by driving the car properly when starting out, meaning keeping speed and acceleration rates low until proper operating temperature is achieved, I won't have any problems with insufficient lubrication.
I had the same thought about the stringyness when I saw it yesterday. The way the drips kept making spiderwebs made me think that if this stuff continues to have that behaviour when cold, it can only mean that lube will be carried along while under motion. I'm not a lubrication expert, that's just a deductive observation.
*grins* And I know where you live!!!
I am trying to pull together some stats for various diff. oil that was previously suggested/discussed for comparison purposes. Hopefully all necessary information are available without having to resort to taking samples to ASTM labs - this is a limited budget effort! If you have info about these oils, please forward them to me. Suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
Differential Oils:
LE 607
Silkolene BOA 90 LS
GearLube SRD 90 (no info on this one yet)
Amsoil 80W90
Redline 75W90
Mobile 1 75W90 (no info on this one yet)
Data to be gathered:
Thin-film Oxygen Uptake ( D-4742)
High Temp/High Shear ( D-4683)
NOACK Volatility ( D-5900)
Pour Point (D-97)
Total Base Number (D-2896)
Cold Cranking Simulator (D-5293)
4-Ball Wear (D-4172)
Kinematic vis @ 212F/100C (cSt)
Kinematic vis @ 104F/40C (cSt)
Viscosity Index
Specific Gravity @ 59F
Flash Point (F)
Fire Point (F)
Brookfield Vis @ -40C/-40F, (cP)
Differential Oils:
LE 607
Silkolene BOA 90 LS
GearLube SRD 90 (no info on this one yet)
Amsoil 80W90
Redline 75W90
Mobile 1 75W90 (no info on this one yet)
Data to be gathered:
Thin-film Oxygen Uptake ( D-4742)
High Temp/High Shear ( D-4683)
NOACK Volatility ( D-5900)
Pour Point (D-97)
Total Base Number (D-2896)
Cold Cranking Simulator (D-5293)
4-Ball Wear (D-4172)
Kinematic vis @ 212F/100C (cSt)
Kinematic vis @ 104F/40C (cSt)
Viscosity Index
Specific Gravity @ 59F
Flash Point (F)
Fire Point (F)
Brookfield Vis @ -40C/-40F, (cP)



