So in the manual it says that the valves only need adjustment at 10000miles. My new s2000 has 30000 and can be noisy at idle when warm. Sounds like the valves. I know B series engines in my other cars tend to be kinda noisy. Is this the case with the s2000 motor as well? I have a 2003.

 

If I listen closely, I can hear my valves a little bit. My Del Sol did the same thing.

Btw, my car has 20k miles on it.

 

Is it harder than a b series to do valve adjustment? I wonder what Honda dings you for it?

 

The motor isn't quiet, and don't worry about adjusting your valves yet, they are fine
Did mine for good measure at 75k miles.

 

Thats good to know . Thanks

 

i just did it for my S, almost 95K, not sure the previous owner did it before this tho'

i actually did it twice in two days, the first try was too loose, it was ticking like a car bomb.


the first thing I did it took me 4 1/2 hours, the second time was 3 hours.

it sucks because you have no room to put your body/hands on without denting fenders. i did valve adjustment for my other honda, so it;s like my fifth time doing that.

batter heat shield need to come off, the spark plug coil wires need to be loosen, the injector cover needs to be off, pcv, sparkplug, cover, strut bar if you have one of those, two more sensor on the side of the VC, etc

just abunch of little things is in the way, oh, when i almost have to tighten up all the valve at 95-100K so if you could spend some time, do it at 75k

 

I listened earlier this evening. It is a random tick tick.....tick.... tick tick...tick tick tick....tick.

Totally normal.

 

I've performed about 15 valve adjustments on various S2000s, and in most cases the intake valves were set a little loose, usually with a few valves on each car slightly out of spec. This is on cars with usage ranging from 15-45k miles. They were mostly AP1 engines. I just adjusted the valves on my car at 19k miles and found three intake valves 0.001" over spec, and the rest at the high end of spec. (0.010"). The exhaust valves were closer to my preferred setting, ranging from 0.010"-0.011".

After adjustment to the lower end of the specification range (0.008" intake and 0.010" exhaust), owners report smoother and quieter idling plus subtle power improvements. The job is expensive at the dealer ($120-180), and you're not guaranteed a precision adjustment.

 

Very helpfull.
Thanks

 

I have the page from helm, the valve cover bolt torque number and order , etc

email/im me if you need one.

intake is more prone to be out of spec like someone said before, one or two was off the chart like kobe.

glove, beer is required in this adjustment.


i have to stand on the front rad. support to get the intake side, damn it sucks to be short