Valve Seal Leaking. Car Ticks on Startup.
01-26-2016, 05:27 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Valve Seal Leaking. Car Ticks on Startup.
All of the gremlins, problems, and issues with my car have been sorted out except for this.
One of my exhaust valves has a leak around the seal. When the car is started, a fairly large amount of white smoke is purged from the exhaust. A while back I had an exhaust leak between the cylinder head and the manifold, which was when I first noticed this problem because rather than that smoke going out the exhaust I could see it shooting directly out of the engine in between the manifold/gasket.
I had the valves adjusted, but for the leak to be fully resolved I'd have to do a full replacement (which to my knowledge requires pulling the head). The ticking has gotten a lot quieter and dissipates after being drove for a few blocks, however it is still there and I was wondering what threat this poses, if any, to the health of my engine if I postpone getting it fixed (as I currently do not have the means or money to get this done). I know that my car is/will be burning oil, but I have no problem keeping an eye on that especially for the time being as it's been very minimal.
Will this affect compression? Will this make the odds of collateral damage higher?
One of my exhaust valves has a leak around the seal. When the car is started, a fairly large amount of white smoke is purged from the exhaust. A while back I had an exhaust leak between the cylinder head and the manifold, which was when I first noticed this problem because rather than that smoke going out the exhaust I could see it shooting directly out of the engine in between the manifold/gasket.
I had the valves adjusted, but for the leak to be fully resolved I'd have to do a full replacement (which to my knowledge requires pulling the head). The ticking has gotten a lot quieter and dissipates after being drove for a few blocks, however it is still there and I was wondering what threat this poses, if any, to the health of my engine if I postpone getting it fixed (as I currently do not have the means or money to get this done). I know that my car is/will be burning oil, but I have no problem keeping an eye on that especially for the time being as it's been very minimal.
Will this affect compression? Will this make the odds of collateral damage higher?
01-27-2016, 05:42 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Is there any risk that I face besides burning oil in the meantime? I'm also just hoping at this point that my guides aren't also bad, because I know that would require head removal.
01-28-2016, 04:14 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
I'd still like some more info on this if possible. Would the average shop/mechanic be able to replace the seals properly with the head still on? Am I correct in that this ticking noise could be caused from just that seal, or is there a good possibility that one of my guides/something else is damaged as well?
01-28-2016, 03:59 PM
#5
The Honda (by the book) procedure shows head removal, so the typical Indy shop is going to go off this procedure to and base their labor rates on that. Is it required? no as Billman said. There is a couple DYI on the the exact procedures (two different that I know of) which I suggest you get familiar with to either do yourself or shop around to someone willing to do it. In a nutshell, compressed air to hold up the valves from dropping into the cylinders and ive heard of string being pulled from intake to exhaust side to cradle the valves being worked on. Both of which would present some risk of dropping a valve and then head removal would be required anyway. I have not done either procedure, but question if a 3rd option of simply timing the engine to TDC for the valve being worked on to 100% preventing dropping one down the cylinder. The downside is then needing to re time the engine.
01-28-2016, 04:15 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
The Honda (by the book) procedure shows head removal, so the typical Indy shop is going to go off this procedure to and base their labor rates on that. Is it required? no as Billman said. There is a couple DYI on the the exact procedures (two different that I know of) which I suggest you get familiar with to either do yourself or shop around to someone willing to do it. In a nutshell, compressed air to hold up the valves from dropping into the cylinders and ive heard of string being pulled from intake to exhaust side to cradle the valves being worked on. Both of which would present some risk of dropping a valve and then head removal would be required anyway. I have not done either procedure, but question if a 3rd option of simply timing the engine to TDC for the valve being worked on to 100% preventing dropping one down the cylinder. The downside is then needing to re time the engine.
01-28-2016, 05:57 PM
#7
Keeping the piston at TDC and filling the cylinder with compressed air works like a charm. Most important thing is to put rags or towels or whatever, in every single oil return hole you can find, much easier to do after removing the rocker arms. But yeah you don't want to drop any keepers into the crankcase. If cylinder 1 is TDC so is cylinder 4, turn the crank 180, and 2 & 3 will be at TDC. You'll know you're right on TDC if you put in air and the crank doesn't move at all.
The valve won't drop far enough if you keep the piston at TDC, tie a string and use some air pressure just as a backup, once you get the springs and retainers off, it's a good idea to check them, as you have an AP1. If they're ok leave them be. You a special tool to remove and install the valve seals but it's not expensive or uncommon. Ditto for the valve springs.
The valve won't drop far enough if you keep the piston at TDC, tie a string and use some air pressure just as a backup, once you get the springs and retainers off, it's a good idea to check them, as you have an AP1. If they're ok leave them be. You a special tool to remove and install the valve seals but it's not expensive or uncommon. Ditto for the valve springs.
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01-28-2016, 07:12 PM
#8
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Keeping the piston at TDC and filling the cylinder with compressed air works like a charm. Most important thing is to put rags or towels or whatever, in every single oil return hole you can find, much easier to do after removing the rocker arms. But yeah you don't want to drop any keepers into the crankcase. If cylinder 1 is TDC so is cylinder 4, turn the crank 180, and 2 & 3 will be at TDC. You'll know you're right on TDC if you put in air and the crank doesn't move at all.
The valve won't drop far enough if you keep the piston at TDC, tie a string and use some air pressure just as a backup, once you get the springs and retainers off, it's a good idea to check them, as you have an AP1. If they're ok leave them be. You a special tool to remove and install the valve seals but it's not expensive or uncommon. Ditto for the valve springs.
The valve won't drop far enough if you keep the piston at TDC, tie a string and use some air pressure just as a backup, once you get the springs and retainers off, it's a good idea to check them, as you have an AP1. If they're ok leave them be. You a special tool to remove and install the valve seals but it's not expensive or uncommon. Ditto for the valve springs.
I've been looking at other threads discussing that same method as well.I'll start getting all the part together tomorrow. I'm actually starting to burn a fair bit of oil when I'm driving spirited now.
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