Yeah im not debating the fact that they go sideways its keeping it there.

Anyone can do a doughnut but linking drifts and keeping it out is a damn site harder.

Don't want to get into an argument with anyone but the thread was asking how to do it, i appreciate the input on how long it is expected to last.etc but when being used for only a couple of times a year im.not overly bothered. paid peanuts for.it anyway

Thanks for the input

 

You probably won't make it through one session. A single doughnut can kill it. I know from experience.

 

You do know you have to have fluid in the diff, right? I have a hard time believing you've ruined a diff with one donut.

OP, weld the diff, put it together and go have fun. If it breaks, it breaks. At least you had fun doing it!

 

Ok when you say this is an extra diff, does that mean housing and the whole pumpkin? B/c when the pinion breaks it will pretty much toast everything.

 

Yeah whole different casing; mounts the whole lot.

Wouldn't risk a perfectly good casing that i have now

 

Jesus. Yes I know it needs oil in it. It was a few doughnuts on fresh blacktop with some wheel hop. I cracked one tooth and it went downhill from there over a period of days. It could have been a instant failure if the chip would have traveled through the gears. The bearing cap on the passenger side shattered. It started off as a very faint click.

 

I know this topic is really old. However, it's the first one to show up when talking about welded diffs or diffs in general.

I figured some pictures and an actual explanation on how to do it would be valuable. I think there is a lot of misinformation regarding S2000 diffs and what effect welding them up will have.



This is what the diff looks like. The pair of worm gears rotate opposite each other when the diff is doing it's job (allowing left and right wheels to spin a different rpm).
The weird looking clutches help define the resistance of the torsen or the torque bias ratio. They will eventually wear out.




Now that you've actually seen the inside of the diff. What you need to do is weld the worm gear pairs to each other. Be very careful to make sure everything gets put back into the diff casing in the right orientation. Also be aware of warpage that can happen during welding of the gears. Because of this I left the whole assembly half in the casing and welded what I could reach. Eventually I flipped it and welded the other sides. Also you can fit some weld on the side facing the two inner gears for additional strength. Just don't build up too much. I would recommend this since the gears will try to spin both ways depending on which wheel wants to spin faster. Since welds are poor in tension it would be wise to weld up both sides of each worm gear pair. Therefore at least one weld is in compression.


Once it's all welded up button it back up and install in your car. *note this is far from the finished amount of weld. I built it up until it would barely fit back into the case. Also remember your diff may be out of balance now since the amount of weld you put on each pair is probably different. Will it matter? i dunno.

First thing that you'll notice is parking lot or really tight turns suck and the rear chatters as the half shafts and tires all load up and skitter along. However, I have to say in a slide the best thing about the welded diff is it really smoothens out the exit of a slide. The torsen felt unpredictable and would sometimes cause a snap recovery when exiting a slide. This will fix that.

Best of luck!

 

thank you for being helpful and not criticizing the op for what he wants to do.