Wheel bearing woes
#1
Wheel bearing woes
I'm almost positive my noise is coming from the wheel bearing although there is no play. The same one I have replaced previously and did not replace the wheel hub that presses into the bearing. I can't recall if there was any scoring on the mating surface of the hub, but from the other threads I've read, this is a possibility.
The noise is audible in the video, its a clinking noise with no load and with a load it sounds like a rotor scraping the heat shield. It is paced along with wheel speed, not rpm and is mainly heard under low speeds since the road noise will drown the sound out eventually.
http://youtu.be/KHY9yGwW4RY
I'll be ordering another bearing and hub, but would it be advisable to drive on this until they come in? Or is this easily fixed some other way?
The noise is audible in the video, its a clinking noise with no load and with a load it sounds like a rotor scraping the heat shield. It is paced along with wheel speed, not rpm and is mainly heard under low speeds since the road noise will drown the sound out eventually.
http://youtu.be/KHY9yGwW4RY
I'll be ordering another bearing and hub, but would it be advisable to drive on this until they come in? Or is this easily fixed some other way?
#2
You can drive on it for a good while but handling gets sloppy. Be careful tightening on new install... mine was tightened several times ('00 was light from the factory) and then replaced and tightened but on the last replacement the axle twisted off the outer CV. I guess it was fatigued from driving loose and tightening multiple times... so that was more time and expense to replace the CV.
#3
I had a similar issue a few months back. The rear wheel bearing would make a 'heat-shield scraping rotor' type noise. There was zero play in the hub. After replacing the wheel bearing, all was good.
The noise does get louder the more you drive. It would be best to srop driving until parts are replaced. You don't want to damage the hub, or worse knuckle if you can avoid it.
The noise does get louder the more you drive. It would be best to srop driving until parts are replaced. You don't want to damage the hub, or worse knuckle if you can avoid it.
#5
Replaced the hub and bearing. Looking at the old bearing, you could see where the bearing was hot and the seals were loosing grease slightly. Still no play in the bearing, just a light noise.
New hub and bearing solved the issue. The car even feels tighter, if that makes any sense.
New hub and bearing solved the issue. The car even feels tighter, if that makes any sense.
#6
Typically once the wheel bearing starts making noise, the hub is already done. When the wheel bearings fail, the inside inner race typically seizes and spins on the hub. I would not even bother replacing just the bearing. If you are going to do the work, replace the hub and bearing.
#7
Typically once the wheel bearing starts making noise, the hub is already done. When the wheel bearings fail, the inside inner race typically seizes and spins on the hub. I would not even bother replacing just the bearing. If you are going to do the work, replace the hub and bearing.
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#8
#9
Typically once the wheel bearing starts making noise, the hub is already done. When the wheel bearings fail, the inside inner race typically seizes and spins on the hub. I would not even bother replacing just the bearing. If you are going to do the work, replace the hub and bearing.
On a side note, it's not a bad job to do when you have access to a lift and nice press. Did mine in 2 hours at the hobby shop on base, constantly asking for tools and taking my time.. lol
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08-14-2008 06:49 AM