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2003 AP1 S2000 Shift from First to Second

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Old Sep 2, 2013 | 05:59 AM
  #11  
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Also might want to check the clutch master cylinder fluid level and see if the CMC is leaking. The synchro's work very hard in the first to second gear shift especially at lower RPM's. If the clutch isn't disengaging all the way you will notice it most in that 1 to 2 shift and that could be causing your problem.

I would also confirm what fluid was put in there, assuming you had someone else do the work, hopefully it is correct.
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 12:05 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mlc
Also might want to check the clutch master cylinder fluid level and see if the CMC is leaking. The synchro's work very hard in the first to second gear shift especially at lower RPM's. If the clutch isn't disengaging all the way you will notice it most in that 1 to 2 shift and that could be causing your problem.

I would also confirm what fluid was put in there, assuming you had someone else do the work, hopefully it is correct.
I sucked up what I could from the clutch master cylinder and added fresh Honda dot3 brake fluid. It seems to shift more smoothly now. Can you overfill the clutch master cylinder?
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 11:52 AM
  #13  
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Sucking it up and refilling is no real help. You have to bleed it out of the lines and slave cylinder.

As I recall, Honda had two different fluids for manuals. One works well for the S, the other does not. I'm not sure if they still sell both varieties.

Anyway, you need to do these three things.

1. Intall the proper tranny fluid (hard to know what is in there now and as others above have said, sometimes another brand works better)
2. Bleed the clutch. (If you don't know how, find someone who does)
3. Adjust the clutch master cyllinder actuation rod to make sure you have the proper amount of play at the pedal. (same as above. If you don't know how to do it, find someone who does)
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Legal Bill
Sucking it up and refilling is no real help. You have to bleed it out of the lines and slave cylinder.

As I recall, Honda had two different fluids for manuals. One works well for the S, the other does not. I'm not sure if they still sell both varieties.

Anyway, you need to do these three things.

1. Intall the proper tranny fluid (hard to know what is in there now and as others above have said, sometimes another brand works better)
2. Bleed the clutch. (If you don't know how, find someone who does)
3. Adjust the clutch master cyllinder actuation rod to make sure you have the proper amount of play at the pedal. (same as above. If you don't know how to do it, find someone who does)
Per Billman 250 sucking the old fluid out and cleaning the reservoir is all you need to do provided there is no air in the line as a result of low fluid level. Bleeding wouldn't hurt anything though - as long as it's done correctly.
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:40 PM
  #15  
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I have a very low mileage AP2 that has a bit on notchiness and subtle grind between 1[sup]st[/sup] and 2[sup]nd[/sup] while it’s cold. I’ve tried all of the recommended changes to no avail and have just resorted to double clutching while shifting from first to second or resort to a first-to-third shift. After a few miles the transmission warms up and it shifts perfectly.

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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 12:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by raymo19
Originally Posted by Legal Bill' timestamp='1379361178' post='22781140
Sucking it up and refilling is no real help. You have to bleed it out of the lines and slave cylinder.

As I recall, Honda had two different fluids for manuals. One works well for the S, the other does not. I'm not sure if they still sell both varieties.

Anyway, you need to do these three things.

1. Intall the proper tranny fluid (hard to know what is in there now and as others above have said, sometimes another brand works better)
2. Bleed the clutch. (If you don't know how, find someone who does)
3. Adjust the clutch master cyllinder actuation rod to make sure you have the proper amount of play at the pedal. (same as above. If you don't know how to do it, find someone who does)
Per Billman 250 sucking the old fluid out and cleaning the reservoir is all you need to do provided there is no air in the line as a result of low fluid level. Bleeding wouldn't hurt anything though - as long as it's done correctly.
I'll have to ask him about that. I know I got plenty of dirty fluid out when I bled mine and the first step was to suck out the old, wipe the bowl and add new fluid, so I know all that old dirty stuff was in the line and the slave. I wonder why he leaves that old stuff in? Seems to me it would pretty much stay where it is, in the line and in the slave. Maybe the action of operating the clutch mixes it up? I'd rather get it all out of there.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 01:43 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Legal Bill
I'll have to ask him about that. I know I got plenty of dirty fluid out when I bled mine and the first step was to suck out the old, wipe the bowl and add new fluid, so I know all that old dirty stuff was in the line and the slave. I wonder why he leaves that old stuff in? Seems to me it would pretty much stay where it is, in the line and in the slave. Maybe the action of operating the clutch mixes it up? I'd rather get it all out of there.
I suppose it's mostly a combination of how little fluid is needed to operate the clutch hydraulics and how little heat is involved - plus the mixing of the new and the old. Unless of course you pop the seals on the slave cylinder and drop it all on the ground as we saw at Spring Fling.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 04:06 PM
  #18  
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The tarmac needs love too!!
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 05:57 PM
  #19  
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I guess Jim still reads all the threads.
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