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Now we need the oompaloopas to describe 24p, 60p etc...
Actually this one is not too tough. Film movie cameras operate at 24 frames/sec. TVs/monitors in the North America operate at 60 frames/sec (refresh rate, or number of times that the picture regenerates itself.) Because of this disparity, the TV, DVD played or broadcaster needs to make it so the TV gets enough information to operate with "stuutering" along. The ratio is 2.5:1 which us then doubled to get to whole numbers. The result is that for each two movie frames that comes in.the first will be repeated 3 times and the second will be repeated 3 times. This is also known as 3:2 pulldown.
So when you have a source that does only 60p, it will always process the the 24 frame rate to 60 frames. But if your TV will accept 24p and your source will output 24p, your TV will operate exactly like a film projector, hopefully making for a truer representation of the original material.
*Note: This probably wasn't as concise as the oompaloopas, sorry.
But don't forget 2:2 pulldown, 1:1 push through, upconversion, downconversion, IRE test patterns, but my favorite is "blacker than black" and "whiter than white".... TV used to be easy. Now I need to buy equipment to make sure that my TV is is correct.
Actually this one is not too tough. Film movie cameras operate at 24 frames/sec. TVs/monitors in the North America operate at 60 frames/sec (refresh rate, or number of times that the picture regenerates itself.) Because of this disparity, the TV, DVD played or broadcaster needs to make it so the TV gets enough information to operate with "stuutering" along. The ratio is 2.5:1 which us then doubled to get to whole numbers. The result is that for each two movie frames that comes in.the first will be repeated 3 times and the second will be repeated 3 times. This is also known as 3:2 pulldown.
So when you have a source that does only 60p, it will always process the the 24 frame rate to 60 frames. But if your TV will accept 24p and your source will output 24p, your TV will operate exactly like a film projector, hopefully making for a truer representation of the original material.
*Note: This probably wasn't as concise as the oompaloopas, sorry.
But don't forget 2:2 pulldown, 1:1 push through, upconversion, downconversion, IRE test patterns, but my favorite is "blacker than black" and "whiter than white".... TV used to be easy. Now I need to buy equipment to make sure that my TV is is correct.
I knew what it all meant, I just wanted another laugh...
BTW, if you buy a tv that supports 120hz, 24p will map directly into it without having to worry about 3:2 pull down, etc...
I have 2 Panasonic Viera Plasma's. Both are in rooms with ambient light and I really don't have any difficulty. Obviously it's better in a pitch black room (or should I say "blacker than black" Ken? ) but still it's fine. They do put out heat though, especially the one in the smaller enclosed room. Also, you might want to paint the wall around the TV flat black. And get the blackest black. And make sure it is flat, not eggshell or any kind of gloss. It does reduce reflectivity around the TV.
This was actually a really good explaination of progressive vs interlaced...
TV used to be easy. Now I need to buy equipment to make sure that my TV is is correct. 
What he said.
) but still it's fine. They do put out heat though, especially the one in the smaller enclosed room. Also, you might want to paint the wall around the TV flat black. And get the blackest black. And make sure it is flat, not eggshell or any kind of gloss. It does reduce reflectivity around the TV.
