I tried to detail my car about 2 month ago and I notice "buffer burn" on my car with scratch mark. I was using some cheap walmart buffer, so after reading a bunch of post, I think its buffer burn because the pattern is not in a swirl form. Its noticeable under the sun.

Plus which kind of pad and product should i use to remove the buffer burn.

My car is black and I just purchase the PC 7424. It has 6 setting, should I just use the lowest setting for all the step like for waxing, polishing, removiing buffer burn, and etc

Thanks and happy new year
Kent

 

kent- if it really is a burn it might not be not easy to fix...

from your description, it does not sound like a bad burn- so i would try a swirl remover. and on a black car, i would use what i usually use, 3m product (see below)- but just about any swirl remover or paint cleaner (paint cleaners are light polishes, similar to swirl removers) will work-
if that does not get it, then you would try a fine cut compound. with either of these products you are really gonna work the product. i do 3x3 square areas on the car- first work side to side, then diags, and finish front to back until the product dusts or is pretty much gone.

you would use low settings for applying waxes and removing them, but a bit higher setting for polishes. i suggest that you start out about 2 or 3 for your first time polishing and increase it just a bit as you are comfortable with the machine and the process. the number that you use depends on what you are comfortable with and there is no magic to using higher speeds (except that they make the polishing go quicker), especially with waxes or synthetic protection.

good info here:
http://properautocare.com/polish.html

and the swirl remover that has my car in their ad is here:

http://properautocare.com/3mperswirmar.html


btw, if you want to start out more aggressive- here is info on compounding (note that their technique is a bit differnent from mine... there is no right or wrong here)-
i always try the least aggressive polish that will do the job first. if it doesnt do the job, i can always go more aggressive-

http://properautocare.com/witporcabpol1.html

 

If the cheap buffer you bought from Wal-Mart is the one with two handles and one speed there is no way you induced buffer burn with it. It had to have already been there or it's something else. The type of buffer I describe is random orbit and only operates at low speeds. So, there is just no way it could do it.

 

Thanks for the info, I'm going to pick up a bottle. Which pad should I purchase to go with it?


MikeyC-
Yea its one of those buffer. I was also using a car cover too, but when I was reading a thread about it, it could cause scratch on the car. So I stop using it.

If this time its not going to go away, i'll probably bring it to a professional.

-Kent

 

[QUOTE=estribo714,Jan 1 2006, 12:27 PM] Thanks for the info, I'm going to pick up a bottle.

 

You don't need a "pro" (a lot of them are hacks anyway). You need a PC!! Of course you'll need some quality pads & polishes too!

 

On average, how many time you reused the pads?

-Kent

 

until they fall apart... which is usually quite awhile. i have some that are around 4 years old! really depends on how often you use them.
i mark the backs with the car that they go to and the product used.
wash them out good after you use them and dry them by spinning on the pc at the lowest speed. if you dry them too high of speed they will fly apart.

 

must have been induced by a rotary ? or made at home rotary by using a diff head on a grinder ?

No "off the shelf orbital polisher" I've seen can induce "paint burn" as you've mentioned nor will any Porter cable dual action polisher burn paint as well. The only damage from either of those units Ive seen is a dirty pad which cause "massive scratching" but no "paint burning"

Here's a pic of a guys finish, whom I had to spend about 6 hours repairing.

The pick below show classic rotary burn with hologramming.

Does your finish look like this ?

 

YES! It look just like that. So do I need a fine cut compound as wanabe stated or can I just use the swirl remover only. Plus how hard was it to get rid of that?