When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This link (scroll to bottom of page) contains a number of good articles on buffer use. Your best bet is to read through them and post more specific questions.
As for buffer use, the majority of post I read prefer the porter cable (PC) random orbital buffer (which is featured in the articles I referred you too). I also have and use the PC. Here are some tips:
1) Use the right pads. There are multiple pads available with various degrees of abrasiveness. Foe example, I use a yellow pad for swirl removal (more abbrasive) and the grey (lowest abrsasiveness) for typical waxing
2) Replace pads when necessary. The lngevity will depend on how you use them and care for them.
3) Clean your pads properly after use.
4) Dampen your pad (appropriately) before use. Some suggest misting your pad with water and others misting your pad the a detailer like Zanio Z6. When waxing, I'll mist the pad with a Quick wax that is compatible with the wax you are applying. For example I'll mist the pad with Meguiars NXT Spray wax before applying the tech wax to the pad.
Go to a junk yard and buy a hood for a few bucks. Find a hood that is weathered but the paint underneath should be in good shape. If you find a late model hood you almost can't go wrong. I did this years ago when most paints were single stage. I also practice on rentals whenever i have one in my posession.
Haha rentals. I have an old beater, in not bad shape but with a lot of swirls I want to remove.
Only question I have (as it seems you can't really screw up with the porter cable) is when I apply the polish to the pad and go to town. Do I leave it and then wipe it off with a terry cloth towel, or do I polish with the machine until it's all gone?
For me (others do it differently), it depends on the product and the level of agressiveness. I apply the sealants/waxes to a light haze and remove with a MF towel. The mild abrasives and paint cleaners I use until the haze starts to disappear, then wipe with a MF towel. Heavier cutting agents like DACP turn to a fine powder when it it used properly from the heat generated. It looks like dust on your hood.
It still needed some work but I ran out of time. Some of those water spots were etched into the clear coat. It was still a 300% improvement. This G35 had been run through a million car washes.
