So I detailed my Black Nissan Frontier this weekend (picts to follow soon) and I came across some areas I wasn't sure how to deal with effectively.

The first one is: all my external plastic has turned from black to a gray/white. This includes fender flares, cowling, door handles, front and rear bumper plastics. Also the rubber moldings around the tail lights have turned gray/white. I used some Megs Hyper dressing mixed 2:1 and that got the color I wanted, but I'm sure the first rain will wash it off. What is the best way to restore these back to black?

This thing needs a serious clay job. I have tar, broiled on bug guts, door dings that have the dingers paint embedded and who knows what else lingering around. I'm afraid that clay alone will not remove all this junk. Is there a decent bug/tar remover that is recommended to free up my paint? or is another method advised before the clay process?

I've been using some over the counter Black Magic car shampoo. The stuff is ok nothing to write home to ma about. In general does it matter if you use warm or cold water? The container does not advise one way or another.

When I polish my Nissan I plan to tape it off. If there anything to avoid when selecting your tape material? or conditions? I heard that sometimes the 3m blue painters tape can pull paint up on removing.

 

If you want to get your exterior trim black again for more than a couple weeks, you'll need to use a dye kit. I recommend this one: http://www.topoftheline.com/trimmolreski.html

For the bugs/tar, you might want to give Stoner's Tarminator (or another bug/tar remover) a try. Follow that up with a claybar and you should be able to get just about everything out of the paint.

I've never used warm or hot water to wash my car with, but I imagine that it would pull grime off of the paint a little easier than cold water would. The first thing you should do is pick up a better shampoo--that Black Magic stuff isn't very good. Better OTC choices would be Meguiar's Gold Class or NXT car wash.

I've always used 3M's blue painters tape with no problems. The adhesive isn't very strong, so I question the claim that it can pull paint up when you remove it. Many other pros use this stuff on a daily basis, so unless I'm completely missing something, I think you should be fine with this stuff.

 

I have never used it but I have read good reports about Forever Black. And some folks have had good experiences with Black Wow, though the reviews have been mixed.

The trim of my wife's Taurus is in pretty bad shape. I have been using Meguiar's Gold Class Trim Detailer on it and have been pleasantly surprised by the results. Each application of the stuff has lasted longer than I would have expected.

 

The best stuff I've used for making black plastic look good again is called Black Wow. It's a small bottle, and it seems like it's seriously expensive, but it isn't. It's really thick and a little goes a long way. I apply it with a small, foam paintbrush, and buff off the excess. It lasts for months.

For the paint from other vehicles, certainly try clay first. If that doesn't get it off - and it may not - you'll need to polish those areas, preferably by machine.

Best car soap I've ever used is made by Majestic Solutions in Raleigh. It's called Ultra Gloss. http://www.majesticsolutionsinc.com/ultragloss.html. Super slick, lots of suds, inexpensive.

3M blue masking tape has an adhesive on it that isn't very strong for just the reason you describe. I'd be shocked if this tape pulled paint off with it upon removal.

 

Thanks for the replies. If I used Megs Super D and dilute could I get the bug and tar gunk off? or is that too harsh for the paint?

 

Tarminator will help with bug guts and tar.

clay the vehicle also, to get any remaining contaminants off the paint.

I agree that megs gold class is one of the best OTC car soaps.

 

the trim turned grey/white because you burned it

i burned my first roof trim too. the trick is to tape all that up before polishing