I bought the Griots DA and just waxed the hood of my newly purchased white all OEM paint 2000 civic. Looks like it hadn't ever had a proper clay/polish/wax. I don't have many products because i'm a noob and purchased Menzerna 85rd and m105. I also do own a Makita 9227c but don't want to start using this until I get more experience.

I started with the wash then clayed then m105 orange pad 4 passes and 85rd black pad 2 passes. The results are below but there are some deeper scratches that it didn't get out.

1. Any recommendations on products for the deeper scratches?
2. what wax/sealant should I finish with?
3. what is PL and light fantastic and diamond white? I have a GPW 2004 with light swirls and planning to tackle that beast next and have heard good things about these products

50/50 shot on the hood of BEFORE and AFTER. Before is on the LEFT and AFTER on the Right hahahaaaaa

 

i have used M105 and m205 on my black s2k and its taken care of anything I needed it for. Rarely did I even use the M105.
I noticed you were using two ends of the spectrum for pads though. I have never used an orange, I guess its more agressive than white which is my go to pad. The black you are using with the m105 is actually a pad most people use to apply a glaze or sealant/wax with no cutting ability to my knowledge.
I recommend blackfire wet diamond for a sealant or Dodo juice brand for carnauba

 

ok white is such a hard colour to get a wet look on, iv got gpw s2000 and have a vast amount of knowledge and products at my disposal and i have to work days on it.
dont use a wax first off light colour work better with sealants.
2nd work on you machine techniques, iv put my own technique at bottom.
i dont use megs stuff i use Scholl S17 and S30 with CG pads, i recommend FK1000p as the LSP (last stage product) S17 for swirls and scratches and refine with S30 and jewel with super nano, id get ironx and tardis before clay and shampoo


Apply a spray of distilled water to the pad to wet it, and then apply some polish or compound to the pad.
Work on a very small area at a time - roughly 1' square, nothing more. Dab the machine around this area to apply the polish.
Turn the machine on at speed 3. Support the weight of the machine, one hand underneath the back to hold it up and the other on the handle/head to guide direction without applying weight to the machine. Any hold is good though, so long as there is no weight over the head of the PC. Move the polisher slowly across the area in overlapping strokes, at a speed of around 1/2" per second - very slowly. You should get around ten passes before the polish starts to go clear and look like its drying and ready to buff off.
Rather than buff off the residue, spray the pad with some more water and repeat the above step. Speed 3, no weight, very slow passes. The polish hazes up again and you have more work time. Make more slow passes until the polish begins to go clear again.
After two hits at speed 3, spray the pad with water and move onto speed 5, again no weight and no pressure and make slow passes by moving the PC at about 1/2" per second.
Finally, spray the pad with water again, and move to speed 6 and this time apply

 

Am I reading you correctly? You used the Menzerna 85rd first and then used the M105? You have it backwards. M105 is a compound. Use it to remove the tough scratches. Then follow up with the 85rd to remove the marring M105 leave behind. M105 has a learning curve. Personally, I don't like it and prefer to use the more user-friendly, and less abrasive, Ultimate Compound. Honda paint is soft and you shouldn't need to use anything more high-powered than UC. I cannot comment on your choice of pads, as I use Meguiar's pads.

I don't want to discourage you--some things one has to learn on one's own--but there really are limits on what you can do with white paint. I agree with those who recommend a sealant for white. Finish Kare's 1000p would be a good, and durable, choice. You could also try Powerlock or Blackfire Wet Diamond. You probably won't see much of a difference--if any difference. White is blah.

 

yup use the m105 first then the 85rd.

you may need to get another step in there if the 85rd isn't finishing down.

maybe try Menzerna FG400 then 85rd.

Phil

 

thank you Phil and all other s2ki members. i appreciate all your advice. i will be ordering more products soon to add to my small collection.

 

I'll second the FK1000p suggestion, looks stunning on white!

If you want to get some more cut out of your M105 with the DA machine, pick up some of the Meguiars microfiber cutting pads. They really do dig down deep yet still finish down well.

 

word of warning before using MF pads, (if needed at) get your paint(clear coat) measured as i may of had an aggressive detail before, Honda paint is very soft one of the softest in fact. scholl s17 will manage everything you need and s30 to refine. Scholl is a domination product so it breaks done so it refines as i breaks down and safer to use,