I have not used a polisher before. My experience with finishes is limited to carnauba wax by hand after a wash.

 

I see. Then look into polishing agents from Menzerna, Jescar, and Meguiars. Can't go wrong with any of them.

Make sure to clay after stripping wax with Dawn as Dawn by itself won't completely remove wax. You always want to clay prior to doing any type of paint correction. This is what I personally do:

1. Strip wax and wash
2. Remove iron (more of a glorified step)
3. Rinse
4. Clay
5. Rinse (I rinse with deionized water, but it's not necessary)

For polishing pad, I would recommend Rupes Yellow Polishing pad if your paint is in a decent shape and doing a 1 step correction.

 

I did invest in the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital polisher. I picked up the 3" polisher not too long ago at a road-show in town. I will do my first practice polishing on my old Odyssey. That's been painted over in most places since I've owned it, and most of the paint is not too bad. I would rather experiment on that vehicle before I tackle the S. I do plan to clay bar before I polish using a synthetic piece that is re-washable if dropped on the ground. I won't be doing any polishing until I can secure a shaded area for most of the day's project. My driveway is covered with trees, so I need to protect the surfaces I'll be working on. I think it was 87F today, so maybe if Fall ever hits, the leaves will fall off the trees and then I can cut back the branches.

 

I found a basic logical order of sequence on Ammonyc.com.
Engine
Wheels
paint
interior
glass

He has a training session set of videos starting with a beginner detailer in mind, with plans to add an Advanced section in the future. The beginner videos cover cleaning and protecting, leaving the paint correcting lessons for the advanced series

 

Larry at AMMO has a lot of great tutorials on his youtube channel. Honestly, the steps can be moved around, its all in HOW you wash it. Inducing scratches by poor washing procedures is what youre trying to stray away from. Things like foaming the car to loosen up surface buildup and dirt, using proper washing methods like washing "top down", the two bucket or multiple bucket method with Grit-guards, your drying procedure... All of those steps are, in my opinion, more important that what you tackle first.

I typically do:
-Wheels (nextzett colourtec wheel cleaner, lambskin wheel mitt/EZ detail brush for fender wells)
-Engine (if it needs it...griot's engine cleaner & soft brush for agitation)
-Pre-wash (rinse with power washer, foam car and wait 5 minutes prior to actual washing to let the foam work its magic)
-Wash (adams car shampoo, microfiber madness wash mitt)
-Rinse with power washer
-Dry (with leaf blower to reduce scratching)
-Drying 2.0 with Larry at AMMO's "Hydrate" and a damp microfiber towel
-Interior and door jambs with Nextzett cockpick premium

My two cents on the paint correction question, i would agree with the above statements and how the paint is on our cars. i would do a one step correction with a microfiber pad from CarPro and something like Shine Supply classic polish. So you'll have the cutting capabilities from the pad, but the polishing capabilities of using a polishing compound. That is what i used on my car and it worked out beautifully. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions.

 

I think that Larry cleans the engine prior to the wheels is because he uses the same tools and wants to keeps metal brake dust particles from contaminating other parts.

 

I carry a few cans of key board compressed air - blow around the mirrors and door handle to get all the residual water out.