Camber suggestions on 17x9.5 +41
#1
Camber suggestions on 17x9.5 +41
sup s2k community. Was wanting some insight on what camber some of you guys are running on similar wheel set ups that works for you guys. As for the details my cars sitting on ohlins dfv's & currently sitting at about a 2 finger gap all around. Wheels are evasive spec 17x9.5 +41 wrapped with 255 40 17 falken azenis. Rears are rolled and slightly pulled. Stock front fenders that are rolled and slightly pulled as well. Car see's an occasional track session maybe 2-3 times a year but mostly used for spirited driving. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks guys
#2
sup s2k community. Was wanting some insight on what camber some of you guys are running on similar wheel set ups that works for you guys. As for the details my cars sitting on ohlins dfv's & currently sitting at about a 2 finger gap all around. Wheels are evasive spec 17x9.5 +41 wrapped with 255 40 17 falken azenis. Rears are rolled and slightly pulled. Stock front fenders that are rolled and slightly pulled as well. Car see's an occasional track session maybe 2-3 times a year but mostly used for spirited driving. Any advice is appreciated! Thanks guys
#3
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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Nah, he'll be fine. Shit's easy.
Around 2.5 to -3 deg up front, given you install UPPER ball joints.
-3 in the back with a little bit straighter than stock toe settings. Especially for an AP1.
the obvious relocated bumper tab in back. bumper lips shaved.
Two or three front-most front fender tabs cut off (or rolled if you like to live dangerously).
Those are just clearance specs. Specs for a track alignment are called out by the user. I can *recommend* something like -3.2F and 3.0R, depending heavily on the rest of your setup, and whether this is an AP1 or 2.
Around 2.5 to -3 deg up front, given you install UPPER ball joints.
-3 in the back with a little bit straighter than stock toe settings. Especially for an AP1.
the obvious relocated bumper tab in back. bumper lips shaved.
Two or three front-most front fender tabs cut off (or rolled if you like to live dangerously).
Those are just clearance specs. Specs for a track alignment are called out by the user. I can *recommend* something like -3.2F and 3.0R, depending heavily on the rest of your setup, and whether this is an AP1 or 2.
#4
There will be a problem up front without wide fenders or a serious pull. Especially so if this car is getting tracked with 255 tires. We aren't talking about some yahoo looking to run a 215 on this wheel and limp from parking lot to parking lot. I assume you understood this from the OP, but maybe not.
Last edited by s2000Junky; 08-23-2017 at 04:24 PM.
#5
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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There will be a problem up front without wide fenders or a serious pull. Especially so if this car is getting tracked with 255 tires. We aren't talking about some yahoo looking to run a 215 on this wheel and limp from parking lot to parking lot. I assume you understood this from the OP, but maybe not.
They're like...3mm more agressive than my wheels. 17X10 +50. Easy peasy fit.
#6
ahh your going to have some problems up front. The rear is really pushing fitment with this spec with standard aggressive camber in the -3 to-3.5 range and I would really try and not go past -3 if you can help it as your going to see diminishing returns of performance after that. Up front with the same camber your still going to have issues unless you pull those fenders to the absolute max, and even then no guarantee. Your particular tire profile/width in the brand you have selected is going to help or hurt you here, every mm will count.
mmm I see. I've seen people fit the rear with this spec or similar too fairly easy with maybe -3 camber but it's the front I'm worried about. I'll eventually buy+30 mm downforce fenders but just want it to fit for now. Don't want to pull my stick fenders to the max and possibly destroy them :/ lol but thanks for your input s2000junky!
#7
Nah, he'll be fine. Shit's easy.
Around 2.5 to -3 deg up front, given you install UPPER ball joints.
-3 in the back with a little bit straighter than stock toe settings. Especially for an AP1.
the obvious relocated bumper tab in back. bumper lips shaved.
Two or three front-most front fender tabs cut off (or rolled if you like to live dangerously).
Those are just clearance specs. Specs for a track alignment are called out by the user. I can *recommend* something like -3.2F and 3.0R, depending heavily on the rest of your setup, and whether this is an AP1 or 2.
Around 2.5 to -3 deg up front, given you install UPPER ball joints.
-3 in the back with a little bit straighter than stock toe settings. Especially for an AP1.
the obvious relocated bumper tab in back. bumper lips shaved.
Two or three front-most front fender tabs cut off (or rolled if you like to live dangerously).
Those are just clearance specs. Specs for a track alignment are called out by the user. I can *recommend* something like -3.2F and 3.0R, depending heavily on the rest of your setup, and whether this is an AP1 or 2.
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#9
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
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I'm using like -3.2F and 3R. Stock (folded) fenders. Not pulled or flared. Just lip rolled. Fender liners have slits in them for the edge of the tires.
They're SPC upper ball joints. They'll never slip if you install them properly.
I track it a bunch.
They're SPC upper ball joints. They'll never slip if you install them properly.
I track it a bunch.
#10
ok ok.
yeah I've heard a lot of people have had that problem with the spc ball joints but like you said they probably weren't installed correctly. What about the buddy club p1 joints or js racing s1's?