alignment specs
When I come back next week, I should (hopefully) have a few goodies waiting for my S from Santa. After I'm done with the installations, I need to have my S aligned. It will be lowered about 1.3"... Does anyone have any alignment specs they can give me? Josh? Alex?
I want a pretty aggressive alignment, thats good for street use and the occassional monthly autox, but I don't want to be burning through tires either. Also can someone recommend a good shop to do an alignment at? Somewhere that they will not damage my BBS wheels. Rick Case Honda? Miami Chassis?
Thanks in advance and happy holidays.
I want a pretty aggressive alignment, thats good for street use and the occassional monthly autox, but I don't want to be burning through tires either. Also can someone recommend a good shop to do an alignment at? Somewhere that they will not damage my BBS wheels. Rick Case Honda? Miami Chassis?
Thanks in advance and happy holidays.
Is this it?

I haven't heard of any specific alignment specs from Honda other than the OEM and this recommended spec coming from Honda UK. Supposely Honda UK got an S2000 and track tested it to come up with these new specs to combat British owner complaints about lack of steering input.
I haven't heard of any specific alignment specs from Honda other than the OEM and this recommended spec coming from Honda UK. Supposely Honda UK got an S2000 and track tested it to come up with these new specs to combat British owner complaints about lack of steering input.
Hey Mav. Those specs are a bit more aggressive than US honda specs. I think the recommended is something like -.6 to -.8 front camber and -1 to -1.2 rear camber.
With wider rims and a lowered car, extra neg camber will help with rubbing. I just got mine set to:
Front: -1.7 camber, 5.8 degress caster (go to 6 if they can)
Rear: -2.4 camber
Zero toe-in front and rear. This is with S02 and a Saner Sway bar. When I get my Volks and Toyo RA-1's, I'm going to bump up the rear camber and add some rear toe-in (-2.4 camber was the max they could do without adding some toe-in).
Anyway, I'm hoping to get 5-7 track days, and up to 10,000 miles on the tires. You may want to go a bit less agressive, I've seen several people go with -1.5 front, and -2.5 rear, but you will see inside tire wear. You can always rotate side to side to extend life, but you have to re-mount the tires on the rims to do that.
hth, j
With wider rims and a lowered car, extra neg camber will help with rubbing. I just got mine set to:
Front: -1.7 camber, 5.8 degress caster (go to 6 if they can)
Rear: -2.4 camber
Zero toe-in front and rear. This is with S02 and a Saner Sway bar. When I get my Volks and Toyo RA-1's, I'm going to bump up the rear camber and add some rear toe-in (-2.4 camber was the max they could do without adding some toe-in).
Anyway, I'm hoping to get 5-7 track days, and up to 10,000 miles on the tires. You may want to go a bit less agressive, I've seen several people go with -1.5 front, and -2.5 rear, but you will see inside tire wear. You can always rotate side to side to extend life, but you have to re-mount the tires on the rims to do that.
hth, j
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Originally posted by CoralDoc
I was using the following specs on Ruby, but she was on stock suspension.
Front Camber: -1.1 deg.
Rear Camber: -2.1 deg.
Front Toe: 0
Rear Toe In (total): 0.2 deg
Front Caster: 5.8 deg
I was using the following specs on Ruby, but she was on stock suspension.
Front Camber: -1.1 deg.
Rear Camber: -2.1 deg.
Front Toe: 0
Rear Toe In (total): 0.2 deg
Front Caster: 5.8 deg



