So I put on the aem v2 last thursday and have been enjoying its incredible sound ever since, come this morning while making my drive to work the car seems fine. a few lights in I get the urge to punch it so I did. first gear I reach about 8,700 or so and shift to second now here is the weird part.......when switching to 2nd the car drops to 6 grand so I keep the accelarator on and notice a weird pause in vtec right at 6,500.....what is going on? don't think anything of it but then I come out of work and hoping it wouldn't do it, I try it again and there it is a pause in power almost like a fuel cut right at 6,500 but what is very weird is that it only happens when I almost redline or redline first gear and shift to 2nd.......I tried just doing 2nd from about 2 grand and nothing happened all fine, I tried shifting from first without redlining at about 7 and nothing again......It only happens when I redline 1st gear and change to second.....any opinions?? Again I just dropped this intake and nothing else....It feels like a fuel cut or pause all of a sudden thats the best way I can explain it, I already reset the ECU thinking it might be the sensors in the intake, wrong....I also checked inside the throttle body thinking too much oil might be in there, again wrong.....what to do?

 

The only things I would suggest are to make sure the engine is warm before Vtec-ing (at least two bars on the Tstat), and check your oil level. I don't know the technical terminology, but the Vtec is controlled by oil pressure, and I know from experience that low oil will cause something similar to what you are explaining.

 

I always wait for 3 bars to hit vtec......checked the oil level its fine....only other options I think might be dirty injectors or ecu.....what do you guys think?

 

tonight while coming home from work the oil light came on? Do I need to put more oil in? what does it mean I guess it might be that.....I checked the dipstick and it shows oil if at the high level......I also used STP to clean injectors.....maybe that might work......can't think of anything else maybe spark plugs are next.

 

If the oil light is on DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR! Have it towed to the mechanic of your choice for an immediate inspection of the oil level, and if that is correct, I'd recommend a compression and leak-down test at a minimum to see what kind of damage may have occurred to the engine.

If the oil level is correct and the oil light comes on, there is either a serious internal engine problem or the oil pressure sending unit has gone south. I hope for your sake that it's the latter.

Please let us know how this works out.

 

Just figured out something, when I had the oil change done and switched to synthetic the place put 4 quarts in I was advised by Deiger that it should be around 5? coraldoc do you think severe damage could have been done by the missing quart?

 

that is why i would never let someone else do my oil change on my honda.....

 

My car takes 5 1/2 quarts with my SC. If you have somebody else do it, watch them.

 

The F20C engine requires about 5.5 quarts of oil for a refill when you drain the oil and change the filter. If you only put in 4 quarts you were running about 1.5 quarts low.

The main concern is that the oil light came on. That occurs when there is close to 0 oil pressure. All kinds of very bad things (main bearing damage, large and small end bearing damage) can occur when that light is on, especially if the car was driven hard.

DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR! If you value your engine, have the car towed to your mechanic for a complete evaluation before running it. Severe and permanent engine damage MAY have already occurred and you want to avoid making it worse. If you are very lucky, you will only need to add oil.

At a minumum, drain out some oil and send it in for an oil analysis (Blackstone Labs offers good service). High metal content in the oil is indicative of bearing damage. If the oil is clean, you may have dodged that bullet. Then fill the oil up to the correct level and have a compression and leakdown check done to see if there was any damage to the rings and valves. All of this work should cost around $100 (plus the tow) and is well worth it if you want to make sure all is healthy in your engine.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you.