Radiator leak! Need some advice.
#1
Radiator leak! Need some advice.
Hey guys!
Just a warning that I'm a pretty big noob to my car. So I have a radiator leak and I called my mechanic and they said because the car is lowered, they won't be able to fix it (well, they aren't willing to risk damaging the oil pan and engine/etc). Anyone have any advice on what to do and maybe where to go to get it fixed? I'm in Mississauga but for this week North York is also a good area for me. Any input would be MUCH appreciated. (I also called a mobile mechanic and they quoted me 700$+ so I'm hoping it won't be as brutal is that). Thank you!!
Just a warning that I'm a pretty big noob to my car. So I have a radiator leak and I called my mechanic and they said because the car is lowered, they won't be able to fix it (well, they aren't willing to risk damaging the oil pan and engine/etc). Anyone have any advice on what to do and maybe where to go to get it fixed? I'm in Mississauga but for this week North York is also a good area for me. Any input would be MUCH appreciated. (I also called a mobile mechanic and they quoted me 700$+ so I'm hoping it won't be as brutal is that). Thank you!!
#2
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Say what now... 700$ to fix a radiator leak??? the S is super easy to swap in a new radiator and you do it from the top. Don't know what those guys are going on about.
You can pick up an mishimoto rad for somewhere in the 200$ range and spend 20 minutes to swap it.
That is assuming the leak is from the radiator itself..
Go to another shop.
You can pick up an mishimoto rad for somewhere in the 200$ range and spend 20 minutes to swap it.
That is assuming the leak is from the radiator itself..
Go to another shop.
#4
A radiator swap is one of the easiest repairs you can do, everything is easily accessible, most of the work is burping the cooling system after the swap.
You can get fully aluminum aftermarket rads for pretty cheap, or lots of cheap used oem rads out there too. I'd go with a new aluminum rad for long term use.
You can get fully aluminum aftermarket rads for pretty cheap, or lots of cheap used oem rads out there too. I'd go with a new aluminum rad for long term use.
#7
zeroptzero speaks the truth. Follow this bleed procedure when you refill the coolant system- the heating system must be blowing out scalding hot air when you're done- otherwise you haven't got all the air out of the system- and i'll bet anyone not familiar with the s2000 is brain dead about this issue (and the rear axle bolt TSB, and the cracked retainer overrev thing on F20c's).
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/998...t-for-dummies/
Its just removing bolts and coolant clamps. its not that tough. Put everything back where you removed it- torque bolts to spec and don't overtighten.
darcy
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/998...t-for-dummies/
Its just removing bolts and coolant clamps. its not that tough. Put everything back where you removed it- torque bolts to spec and don't overtighten.
darcy
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cs2k04
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09-12-2009 12:20 PM