Spoon rear over fender install
03-14-2013, 12:13 PM
#97
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Been putting a bunch of hours in, getting closer, enjoy!
Sorry for the photo quality, phone pics.
Machined this up to bulkhead mount the filter for the remote type breather. The valve cover vents to the dry sump tank which then vents to the catch can.
Shouldn't have any issues filling up catch cans with vacuum on the crankcase and this breather setup.
This is for a remote battery hookup for boost when starting or for quick access to charge the battery. With small batteries it can be beneficial to use an external battery for starting, especially before a race so the alternator isn't drawing excessively to charge the onboard battery back up.
The right tools make all the difference. The DMC crimper makes life so quick and easy and guarantees excellent connections. The DT (larger size for 18gauge and up) and DTM (20 gauge and smaller) connectors are compact and weather tight and pretty much the race car standard. More affordable than autosport connectors which are the round twist lock type. This is the harness for the dual 044 fuel pumps in the surge tank.
After searching the Spal catalog, this one had the highest flow for the space I have available. C&R's rad fan mounts are the best option available, and at $10.00 were money well spent. I just had to cut to size and weld in place, they're ready to go. Blue loctite on the fasteners makes sure things won't shake loose. So much better than zip ties through the rad.
Our local sanctioning body just mandated FIA rain lights for road racing here, so here it is. Also mocked up the exhaust exit, seems like it will work out well. Will be building the exhaust from Vibrant 3.5" oval to maximize ground clearnace and keep some room to the flat floor. The tip is a Vibrant 2-1 merge collector with dual 3" 0.035" wall exits.
Here is the harness all finished up coming from the Full Blown dual pump hanger.
Thanks!
Andrew
Sorry for the photo quality, phone pics.
Machined this up to bulkhead mount the filter for the remote type breather. The valve cover vents to the dry sump tank which then vents to the catch can.
Shouldn't have any issues filling up catch cans with vacuum on the crankcase and this breather setup.
This is for a remote battery hookup for boost when starting or for quick access to charge the battery. With small batteries it can be beneficial to use an external battery for starting, especially before a race so the alternator isn't drawing excessively to charge the onboard battery back up.
The right tools make all the difference. The DMC crimper makes life so quick and easy and guarantees excellent connections. The DT (larger size for 18gauge and up) and DTM (20 gauge and smaller) connectors are compact and weather tight and pretty much the race car standard. More affordable than autosport connectors which are the round twist lock type. This is the harness for the dual 044 fuel pumps in the surge tank.
After searching the Spal catalog, this one had the highest flow for the space I have available. C&R's rad fan mounts are the best option available, and at $10.00 were money well spent. I just had to cut to size and weld in place, they're ready to go. Blue loctite on the fasteners makes sure things won't shake loose. So much better than zip ties through the rad.
Our local sanctioning body just mandated FIA rain lights for road racing here, so here it is. Also mocked up the exhaust exit, seems like it will work out well. Will be building the exhaust from Vibrant 3.5" oval to maximize ground clearnace and keep some room to the flat floor. The tip is a Vibrant 2-1 merge collector with dual 3" 0.035" wall exits.
Here is the harness all finished up coming from the Full Blown dual pump hanger.
Thanks!
Andrew
03-26-2013, 12:30 PM
#98
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Making progress, here are some updates.
Been taking Iphone pics as I'm working.
hardpoints and brackets added to properly secure the J's front fenders
reaming upright to straight for press in bushing and milspec hardware/Aurora bearing for adjustable bump steer.
All finished
reaming the casting straight for press in bushings
bushings machined and ready to go, with solid bushings in the rack and the rubber coupler removed from the steering shaft the steering feel and response should be excellent.
the OEM manifold normally has a steel tube with no barb or flare, no problem for NA but will be an issue for boost. I would have switched to AN but th AEM regulator has a push on nipple and no way to switch to a fitting. So I fabricated a new port and pressed it in, with a flare on it.
Crimp on ear clamps over braided silicone hose make sure this isn't going anywhere.
park bike hanging out with the S2k, super lucky to have Joyride150 bike park 45 minutes away for winter riding.
Will be finished up with the front end in the next few days then on to the rear.
Been taking Iphone pics as I'm working.
hardpoints and brackets added to properly secure the J's front fenders
reaming upright to straight for press in bushing and milspec hardware/Aurora bearing for adjustable bump steer.
All finished
reaming the casting straight for press in bushings
bushings machined and ready to go, with solid bushings in the rack and the rubber coupler removed from the steering shaft the steering feel and response should be excellent.
the OEM manifold normally has a steel tube with no barb or flare, no problem for NA but will be an issue for boost. I would have switched to AN but th AEM regulator has a push on nipple and no way to switch to a fitting. So I fabricated a new port and pressed it in, with a flare on it.
Crimp on ear clamps over braided silicone hose make sure this isn't going anywhere.
park bike hanging out with the S2k, super lucky to have Joyride150 bike park 45 minutes away for winter riding.
Will be finished up with the front end in the next few days then on to the rear.
04-08-2013, 10:13 AM
#99
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Taking some actual measurements on the car to model front suspension at the target ride height, here before any corrections made.
quick model to analyse the roll center location, and scrub radius. With this I was able to calculate the shim thickness to set the roll center vertical location. Was also able to check the scrub radius, currently at 35mm inboard of wheel center.
shims machined and installed with appropriate length/grade hardware. Could trim a few threads off the total length for some weight savings. J's S2 joint pictured.
Have since found slightly longer hardware for the caliper brackets that engages all threads. The original S2000 hardware was on the short side as pictured.
all buttoned up. Had to remove some droop limiter to account for the roll center adjustment. You can see the damper position sensor mounted, as well as the 7" vibrant bell mouth for the fresh air intake.
Now can measure/tune the bumpsteer and finish the front suspension completely.
