Spoon rear over fender install
#82
Typically a racecar with this level of equipment sells for around 200 000, Viper comp coupe, Porsche GT3 cup, even the new Multimatic Focus ST for Grand AM is over 100k and it is pretty bare bones. And these are factory builds with some level of production and access to extensive manufacturing capabilities and parts bins. For a complete one off, you can imagine the time it takes to build everything custom and is more involved, and more expensive.
Unfortunately an S2000 race car will never have the pedigree of a GT3 cup car or a dedicated series to run in, and consequently I'd be hard pressed to sell it for North of 200k. That said, I wouldn't build one like this for a customer for any less.
Unfortunately an S2000 race car will never have the pedigree of a GT3 cup car or a dedicated series to run in, and consequently I'd be hard pressed to sell it for North of 200k. That said, I wouldn't build one like this for a customer for any less.
#84
Typically a racecar with this level of equipment sells for around 200 000, Viper comp coupe, Porsche GT3 cup, even the new Multimatic Focus ST for Grand AM is over 100k and it is pretty bare bones. And these are factory builds with some level of production and access to extensive manufacturing capabilities and parts bins. For a complete one off, you can imagine the time it takes to build everything custom and is more involved, and more expensive.
Unfortunately an S2000 race car will never have the pedigree of a GT3 cup car or a dedicated series to run in, and consequently I'd be hard pressed to sell it for North of 200k. That said, I wouldn't build one like this for a customer for any less.
Unfortunately an S2000 race car will never have the pedigree of a GT3 cup car or a dedicated series to run in, and consequently I'd be hard pressed to sell it for North of 200k. That said, I wouldn't build one like this for a customer for any less.
#85
Finished assembling the flex lines and the AP pedal box. The Brembo direct mount reservoirs are made specifically for the AP pull type masters complete with all titanimum hardware. They make life much easier than trying to find a location to mount a remote reservoir, especially that would be high enough for a firewall mounted pedal box like this.
Just need to run the clutch line and decide where to pass the remote bias adjuster through the firewall.
Need to install all new hubs/ARP studs/wheel bearings and then will fill up the brake system and fine tune the front/rear engagement timing and pedal positions.
Just need to run the clutch line and decide where to pass the remote bias adjuster through the firewall.
Need to install all new hubs/ARP studs/wheel bearings and then will fill up the brake system and fine tune the front/rear engagement timing and pedal positions.
#86
Looks fantastic! Weren't you going to originally run an Engineered Motion bracket with dual tilton's and OEM brake pedal? How come you did not end up using that setup? I assume you've also removed the OEM rear proportioning valve for the rear binders?
#87
Yep had fitted the enmo setup. It's a great way to convert to a dual master setup. However the ap pull type box has less hysteresis, maintains more consistent front/rear bias, and the pedals are all on needle rollers for better feel and less play. No question the enmo setup would have worked well and was way easier to install and less costly. But when it comes to pedal boxes ap pull type are the best there is and when I found I could make this fit I invested the time and dollars to make it happen.
As for the Proportioning valve it still serves a purpose creating a knee in the rear brake pressure as the weight is transferred off the rear axle during braking
So I'm starting with matched .7 front and rear masters, with prop valve in place. If it doesn't work as planned no problem to remove it.
As for the Proportioning valve it still serves a purpose creating a knee in the rear brake pressure as the weight is transferred off the rear axle during braking
So I'm starting with matched .7 front and rear masters, with prop valve in place. If it doesn't work as planned no problem to remove it.
#88
Been working away at building the rest of the electric harnesses needed. Have completed the Alternator/starter harness and the EPS harness. You can also see the Chase engine harness with the firewall disconnect installed.
Fabricated the panel to hold the electronics. EPS module, Motec PDM32 and Motec M800. Still have to mount the Can switch panel and Can Gateway.
Finished up cutting and fitting the carbon filler plates and switches.
The balance of the switches are taken care of with a CAN switch panel and PDM Gateway.
Here there are master disconnect and ignition on the toggles.
Traction Control and Boost Control on the rotary switches.
Fire
Brake bias
Dash dimmer (waiting on a 100 ohm pot to feed the Motec backlight inverter, will fit where temperature dial went)
ADL2 is mounted on the steering column.
Here you can see the backside of how the switches are mounted. The left and right side carbon pieces containing the switches are bonded to the OEM pieces and cleared out in the rear to make room for the switches. This way the panels are easily removed by the factory 3 screws and are secure. Took quite a bit of time but worked out great.
Andrew
Fabricated the panel to hold the electronics. EPS module, Motec PDM32 and Motec M800. Still have to mount the Can switch panel and Can Gateway.
Finished up cutting and fitting the carbon filler plates and switches.
The balance of the switches are taken care of with a CAN switch panel and PDM Gateway.
Here there are master disconnect and ignition on the toggles.
Traction Control and Boost Control on the rotary switches.
Fire
Brake bias
Dash dimmer (waiting on a 100 ohm pot to feed the Motec backlight inverter, will fit where temperature dial went)
ADL2 is mounted on the steering column.
Here you can see the backside of how the switches are mounted. The left and right side carbon pieces containing the switches are bonded to the OEM pieces and cleared out in the rear to make room for the switches. This way the panels are easily removed by the factory 3 screws and are secure. Took quite a bit of time but worked out great.
Andrew