Sorry to hear about the impeller damage, but it sounds like a mixed blessing. Don't worry about trying to get a weekend. I only get two weekends off a month and usually work 3 days a week so trying to connect shouldn't be to tough. Not sure if you have a fuel pump, but that is something you can install while you're waiting. The aeromotive unit is well reviewed. Not sure if you have a return fuel system. If you do, I'd recommend getting the B&M fpr. Aftermarket pumps crank up the pressure. I have the supra one with the rewire and saw 58psi. The B&M only raises pressure, but you drill the stock one to lower it and use the B&M unit to raise it where you want it. This is nice when you add injectors that aren't covered by the injector wizard, aka the new ID or FIC bosch injectors. You're given the battery offsets at certain fuel PSIs. I'd also recommend some means to know your fuel pressure.

I'd definitely recommend the new bosch injectors. I have a set of the 900cc FIC units and they do drive like stock. The FIC guys are great folks. I can't recommend them enough. I lost an o-ring and they sent me plenty of replacements no charge and shipped quickly. Had a small issue with the adapter wire harnesses which was addressed quickly too.

I also have some spare honda spark plugs that are a step colder so don't worry about those.

Since your kit is used, I'd recommend getting 2 new vtec gaskets as well. DO NOT buy them from vortech. They charge TRIPLE what honda asks for (don't ask how I know). Make sure you have the upgraded vtec solenoid bolts. I have some spares if you need them.

You may want to upgrade the air intake sensor. Its up to your tuner. The stock honda one reacts very slowly to temperature changes. The GM one is considerably faster and cheap as well. It's not critical though.

If you want to upgrade your MAP sensor, the SOS is a great unit; bolts up to the stock location and is good to 28PSI. My car actually drove better with theirs. at

Almost forgot, you'll need some hondabond for your oilpan. Honestly, that's the most ornery part.

 

I already have the full blown 340 fuel pump but need to install it. I keep forgetting to order the filter set. I was wondering which map sensor to get and I hvent talked to my tuner yet. The kit came with 650cc injectors although I don't know the brand. As for the fpr, what do you think of the comptech unit. An as far as tools, what would we need. I have a carport at a family members house but don't have tools yet because I actually live at an apartent complex. I was looking around for a good set. I was actually in the process of looking into what kind of spark plugs to get. I'll go and get the vtec gaskets and hondabond tomorrow.

 

I wouldn't worry about tools unless you want a set to have to handle trouble shooting later. I have the ones we'll need. If you do want a set, just get a craftsman metric set, some 3/8 drive allen head sockets (metric) and a good torque wrench.

You really need to know what injectors you have. Else you're just guessing what your battery voltage offsets should be.

The comptech regulator is a rising rate type where as the stock one is a 1:1. I forget what ratio the comptech is. Don't use it with the ems. Also, since you're using the ems, you might as well maximize the blower/pump gas and push around 12 psi.

Regarding the pump filter. I usually try to stay with oem as much as possible. O'rielly offers them and it's a better filter compared to the oem, but the oem filter appears to flow better. Realize, the only fuel filter the S has is the intake one; that the premium Honda is placing on flow...

Forget to mention, make sure your solenoid and water pump works. Just put battery voltage on them and listen.

 

That's another thing I need to buy, a new pulley. vortech told be the one I had was pretty banged up. I was looking into getting an ASP pulley. I was also going to get the oem filter set to attachto the full blown fuel pump. And both the solenoid and water pump are working. Although the battery just died on me as I tried to leave work.

 

I have a stock vortech and a 3.8" vortech laying around I can try to dig up. The 3.8 will put you on the edge of what pump gas can push; around 13 psi.

 

I have a stock and a 3.8" vortech pulleys laying around I can try to dig up. The 3.8 will put you on the edge of what pump gas can push; around 14 psi. Also if you don't want to drill/tap your stock fuel rail for a pressure gauge, the aftermarket ones are nice since you can mount them remotely and place a gauge on them. I just ended up drilling my rail.

 

I was looking at a 3.8 or 4 inch pulley. But is it safe to run 14psi on a stock block? I was looking into an aftermarket fuel rail but wasn't sure which one. I also need to get my crank pulley drilled because the kit didn't come with one.

 

I'd go with the 4", that'll put you around 12.5psi for an ap1. Keep the stock rail and pick up an aeromotive FPR. You're fuel pressure will be higher and it helps to be able to dial in your fuel pressure. That and it's easy to add a pressure gauge. You'll need an adapter to go from the stock rail to the FPR. Google search will get you one. I'm not sure your 650cc injectors will safely support you HP. Youre gonna be close to 400whp.

If you have the coin, I'd pick up a HIgh flow cat as well.

 

I just posted pics of the injectors in the FI forum. They guys on here are stating that the injectors I have are subaru injectors. I guess I can pick up a set of 1000cc injectors. I'm missing the aftercooler overflow tank. Is it necessary or can I run it without one? I'm gonna try to call ASP racing on monday to get their 4 inch pulley. I'll call full blown and ask about the aeromotive FPR. They've always given me good prices.

 

You can run your injectors though the injector wizard in the ems doesn't have subaru injectors listed at your flow rate. You would need their offsets. I'm sure the suby forums would have them. You could try the one's in the ems, 550cc and it'll be close, but you'd also need to make sure they will fit the rail and the S's wire harness. Otherwise, I'd just pick up the FIC 900cc ones. They are essentially the same as the ID 1000s and cheaper. I have them and they work fantastic and truthfully at your hp level the 650cc would be over what's considered the safety margin for duty cycle. The fuel pressure would have to be increased to get you some safety margin. No biggie, just have to make sure the injectors can flow at increased line pressure, however coming from a FI car, I'm sure they would. Again, this is something the suby forums would have. The aeromotive pump, per their flow graphs, flows plenty even at 70 psi. Sorry to be making this more of a hassle, but I think it better you hear it now than later when someone is charging you.

OR we can just slap them in crank up your pressure and what your af ratios are. I'd hate for you to bump into capping your duty cycle while tuning and you WILL be close to it. At base pressure those 650s will run out of breath before you hit peak boost. Inceasing fuel pressure will get you there but I'm not sure how much; that depends on how well the injectors flow as pressure increases. We'd need the injector's fuel/pressure delivery curve. Being from a FI car, they should do well. Again, i'd want to have a good idea how much duty cycle space I have...

Just for reference; many using the ID1000/FIC900 are seeing around 70% duty cycle around 400 whp. The pressure would need to the increased such as to get these to flow like a 750cc and that would put you around 90% duty cycle.

You don't need the extra tank. All it does is increase your heat capacity size and when your sitting in traffic you'll get heat soaked anyway.

Hope this info helps some.