Its just a SUPER re-inforced diff housing. If you go to the strip ( ) and are putting down 500+hp, with the stock diff you have to granny shift or you would blow your gears out your a$$.

Now he can run balls out, on the same line, over and over.


And to do it right....its a huge pain in the ass. You cant just throw your gears in and go.

 

Pro Tuning Performance. I had them replace hubs knuckles and wheel bearings and they did a good job.

 

If the ring and pinion hasn't already been installed in the diff, then yeah, you will definitely need someone with lots of diff building experience to do it. However, it sounds like the diff has already been assembled, and it just needs to be mounted up in the car, right?

Regarding the strength of the diff, I really don't think it has much to do with HP. From a sheer physics point of view, the max instantaneous force on the diff is caused by driveline shock. You're more likely to blow the diff with a stock motor and a heavy flywheel and 4 puck clutch than you would be from a stock clutch, light weight flywheel, and 600 HP.

 

Its more competitive than that Million Dollar car parade lap called F1.

 

idk about your comparison there, unless you are saying there would be no shock because the stock clutch wouldn't be able to hold that power for a second

00mugen- granny shiftin would reduce the wear and tear on the transmission, which is where the gears would "blow out from", not the diff

 

pretty sure that when launching, the diff is what you are trying to not explode, and when shifting, the focus is the tranny

 

Haha well i would do it myself but i got no time right now. Eapecially since im in training right now. And when i get back ill be working 12 hr shifts for a whole wk to include weekends. Then after that ill be going to nebraska. So yea i alao dont got tools cause i cant go on base. But anyway yea im a dragstrip guy because thats what everybody does here and that is all we have here. As far as me getting times would be by launching harder. This one is has stock 4.1 gears as i heard is best when FIed.

 

Puddymod diffs use a solid steel sleeve rather than a crush sleeve as well as reinforced bearing caps. This should combat the gears from being pushed back to the point where they press against the housing. They are also blueprinted and cryo treated for added strength.

What Gernby is saying relates to a puck clutch not offering as much "cushion" as a standard organic disc which may offer a buffer to driveline shock/vibration which can place different levels of stress on the diff. A non-puck setup will allow for a smoother engagement which can promote longevity on all of the drivetrain (motor on back).

"Granny shifting" will not allow for power levels to increase, so controls power delivery that otherwise WOULD place strain on the diff. The differential handles power differently than the transmission by coping with traction coming on and off from tires, road surface, etc. Sometimes the diff transmits power to the wheels and sometimes it absorbs it which varies during the drive and therefore requires it to handle added amounts of stress over the transmission.

 

so you are saying that by granny shifting/shifting slowly, I am saving the diff? Everyones entitled to their opinion, but I'm not convinced that's the way it works

 

Yes that is what I am saying. By shifting sooner (particularly in our cars where we create more power higher in the rpms) you reduce the amount of power being offloaded on the diff. Also by easing on the power like you would when you granny shift there is not an abrupt transition of power placed on the diff. Its not an opinion, its just how it works.