Alignment discussion
Originally Posted by Ultra_Nexus' timestamp='1349011658' post='22047582
More camber at the front - The idea is that you have a flatter rear tyre to allow better acceleration traction.
This again would bring in the reason you have stagger.
For road, I'd be looking at 2º front camber and a little toe out.
Yes, high caster does increase steering related camber but also mutes your turn in.
This again would bring in the reason you have stagger.
For road, I'd be looking at 2º front camber and a little toe out.
Yes, high caster does increase steering related camber but also mutes your turn in.

It's certainly worth experimenting, especially if you can get Ray to make the changes for little cost.
Lots of caster will make the steering heavier all over but with less weighting up (as there is more to start with). You also get more "camber" when you are turning as the wheels lean over more - most of the track guys in the US run with caster maxxed out for this reason. Having lots of camber on the front as suggested by some will have a similar effect.
The car will feel a lot more pointy with very fast turn in. I also found this made the car quite difficult to place as turn in was a bit too fast for my abilities.
The car will feel a lot more pointy with very fast turn in. I also found this made the car quite difficult to place as turn in was a bit too fast for my abilities.
Lots of front camber also makes the steering feel horrible on anything less than a perfect road. I often convince myself I have a puncture (did it this morning), when I don't because of the way the car wanders all over the road at times. Again it's great if you're cornering hard, but a bit horrible day to day.
Originally Posted by s2k_Nut' timestamp='1349014149' post='22047637
[quote name='Ultra_Nexus' timestamp='1349011658' post='22047582']
More camber at the front - The idea is that you have a flatter rear tyre to allow better acceleration traction.
This again would bring in the reason you have stagger.
For road, I'd be looking at 2º front camber and a little toe out.
Yes, high caster does increase steering related camber but also mutes your turn in.
More camber at the front - The idea is that you have a flatter rear tyre to allow better acceleration traction.
This again would bring in the reason you have stagger.
For road, I'd be looking at 2º front camber and a little toe out.
Yes, high caster does increase steering related camber but also mutes your turn in.

It's certainly worth experimenting, especially if you can get Ray to make the changes for little cost.
[/quote]
I have to agree with Lovegroova, If you run high front cambers and toe out you will destroy you tyre's in no time. plus in everyday traffic and as a daily there is absolutely no need, great if you out for a Sunday thrash on the limit or track days, it will also feel horrible over road repairs etc, plus how the front arms adjust the more camber you put on reduces your caster limit,
On the road I'm not finding it as skittish as I'd expect for -2'20f camber.
The car doesn't follow tar banded join lines or get sucked into little imperfections at all. I can't quantify what is preventing this effect though. Maybe it's the big sticky front semi flat tyres combined or the uber expensive 3 way adjustable custom suspension with giant remote reservoirs which I have no clue how to setup yet! My point being that there is soo many things that effect the ride don't focus on Just alignment stats.
I'm also seeing front tyre wear opposite to what everyone would expect! I'm chewing the outside of the front tyres off and the insides look like new
I think my lower castor may be the reason for this. I read somehting very interesting above, I didn't know that more caster results in an increased negative camber on turn in. Which would explain why looking at my tyres suggests I need even more negative camber
but maybe I can just increase my castor instead?
On my car it's not a matter of Having more front camber than rear. Firstly I'm trying to eliminate the excess scrubbing I was getting on the front outside edges as the outside tyre tucks under mid corner. Secondly and similarly I want both the rear wheels to have Have maximum contact patch as they are the driving wheels. More contact means I can get more grip. At -2'30 rear I was seeing the rear insides wearing a lot so I knocked -0'30 off and found the tyre wasnt tucking under, rear tyre wear looked a lot more even and I had more grip. Plus there is now a lot more warning around the limit and the car is soo much less snappy at the back. As the tyre wasn't tucking under at -2' and I liked the reduction in rear negative Camber I went a bit further and next alignment I had another few seconds taken off leaving it were it is now in terms of rear camber.
Everyone's setups and preferences are different, I personally think you need to find what you like and trial and error from there to improve it for yourself. Go with something fairly basic for road use I don't think you want to try anything out of Hondas ORIGINAL spec, even the uk recommended settings look a little aggressive on the back but again that's my preference.
If you track it then it's a completely different matter. The tyre wear will tell you a lot. Tyre pressures become überduber important and can be used to band aid other settings till a more permanent adjustment can be made.
The car doesn't follow tar banded join lines or get sucked into little imperfections at all. I can't quantify what is preventing this effect though. Maybe it's the big sticky front semi flat tyres combined or the uber expensive 3 way adjustable custom suspension with giant remote reservoirs which I have no clue how to setup yet! My point being that there is soo many things that effect the ride don't focus on Just alignment stats.
I'm also seeing front tyre wear opposite to what everyone would expect! I'm chewing the outside of the front tyres off and the insides look like new
I think my lower castor may be the reason for this. I read somehting very interesting above, I didn't know that more caster results in an increased negative camber on turn in. Which would explain why looking at my tyres suggests I need even more negative camber
but maybe I can just increase my castor instead?On my car it's not a matter of Having more front camber than rear. Firstly I'm trying to eliminate the excess scrubbing I was getting on the front outside edges as the outside tyre tucks under mid corner. Secondly and similarly I want both the rear wheels to have Have maximum contact patch as they are the driving wheels. More contact means I can get more grip. At -2'30 rear I was seeing the rear insides wearing a lot so I knocked -0'30 off and found the tyre wasnt tucking under, rear tyre wear looked a lot more even and I had more grip. Plus there is now a lot more warning around the limit and the car is soo much less snappy at the back. As the tyre wasn't tucking under at -2' and I liked the reduction in rear negative Camber I went a bit further and next alignment I had another few seconds taken off leaving it were it is now in terms of rear camber.
Everyone's setups and preferences are different, I personally think you need to find what you like and trial and error from there to improve it for yourself. Go with something fairly basic for road use I don't think you want to try anything out of Hondas ORIGINAL spec, even the uk recommended settings look a little aggressive on the back but again that's my preference.
If you track it then it's a completely different matter. The tyre wear will tell you a lot. Tyre pressures become überduber important and can be used to band aid other settings till a more permanent adjustment can be made.
In the end I have settled for 6[sup]o[/sup] 05' which suits me.
It's also worth remembering that the setup is a bit of a balancing act. Lots of "grip" at the front will effectively make the rear "looser" and vice versa. My car is setup to be a little understeery as that makes sense for me and my driving abilities and the fact that my car is a road car.
It's also worth remembering that the setup is a bit of a balancing act. Lots of "grip" at the front will effectively make the rear "looser" and vice versa. My car is setup to be a little understeery as that makes sense for me and my driving abilities and the fact that my car is a road car.
Im thinking 1deg front and loads of castor is giving me too much dynamic camber, we will see when I get the current measurements.
Originally Posted by lovegroova' timestamp='1349011162' post='22047574
In the end I have settled for 6[sup]o[/sup] 05' which suits me.
It's also worth remembering that the setup is a bit of a balancing act. Lots of "grip" at the front will effectively make the rear "looser" and vice versa. My car is setup to be a little understeery as that makes sense for me and my driving abilities and the fact that my car is a road car.
It's also worth remembering that the setup is a bit of a balancing act. Lots of "grip" at the front will effectively make the rear "looser" and vice versa. My car is setup to be a little understeery as that makes sense for me and my driving abilities and the fact that my car is a road car.
Im thinking 1deg front and loads of castor is giving me too much dynamic camber, we will see when I get the current measurements.
Is it high speed corners or low speed you get the understeer?
Entry, mid corner or exit?
Personally, gut feeling if you will, I'd go with more front static camber and slightly less toe out (or have it set neutral, zero toe) to correct the tyre wear.
Entry, mid corner or exit?
Personally, gut feeling if you will, I'd go with more front static camber and slightly less toe out (or have it set neutral, zero toe) to correct the tyre wear.









