Bourbon's S6000
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It's my understanding you can have a big a sump as you like (so long as it fits) but when you fill it with oil the top level must be no higher than usual as indicated on the dip stick.
So the method is chuck about 4 litres straight in, then baby top ups until the dip stick reads full.
If I'm wrong someone please tell me! Haha
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From: Norwich
Originally Posted by mattie170' timestamp='1401440646' post='23182043
If I remember right the ford 8.8 has a casting lug on top so that's what causes the issue, glen will be able to confirm. So if you were making the brackets the r230 would be ideal. Also the final drive in it is 3.6:1 so even better for traction with that tq. If it makes a genuine 600tq (not yank spec) it will more than likely ruin those drive shafts in no time at all. The dss driveshafts have larger outer splines as they found the honda size too small so if you make the shafts you might want to make some hub centres too! I did look at getting shafts made in the uk but the cost was still high so just brought the kit from the US.
I know a couple of places that might be able to re-broach my honda hubs.
There's a thread with this discussed in detail on v8s2000.com
Obviously you'd have to have a new end on the drive shaft to suit and that's where the price starts to creep up. If I can get hold of a broaching tool I can do that no problem. Not the actual drive shaft though.
If I'm not mistaken the diff I have has a ratio of 3.75, so more suited to the engine than the S2 one but not as short(short? Long? I know what I mean haha) as the r230. The mounting points for the r200 and r230 are going to be slightly different aren't they?
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Originally Posted by Carl Bourbon' timestamp='1401452632' post='23182191
[quote name='mattie170' timestamp='1401440646' post='23182043']
If I remember right the ford 8.8 has a casting lug on top so that's what causes the issue, glen will be able to confirm. So if you were making the brackets the r230 would be ideal. Also the final drive in it is 3.6:1 so even better for traction with that tq. If it makes a genuine 600tq (not yank spec) it will more than likely ruin those drive shafts in no time at all. The dss driveshafts have larger outer splines as they found the honda size too small so if you make the shafts you might want to make some hub centres too! I did look at getting shafts made in the uk but the cost was still high so just brought the kit from the US.
If I remember right the ford 8.8 has a casting lug on top so that's what causes the issue, glen will be able to confirm. So if you were making the brackets the r230 would be ideal. Also the final drive in it is 3.6:1 so even better for traction with that tq. If it makes a genuine 600tq (not yank spec) it will more than likely ruin those drive shafts in no time at all. The dss driveshafts have larger outer splines as they found the honda size too small so if you make the shafts you might want to make some hub centres too! I did look at getting shafts made in the uk but the cost was still high so just brought the kit from the US.
I know a couple of places that might be able to re-broach my honda hubs.
There's a thread with this discussed in detail on v8s2000.com
Obviously you'd have to have a new end on the drive shaft to suit and that's where the price starts to creep up. If I can get hold of a broaching tool I can do that no problem. Not the actual drive shaft though.
If I'm not mistaken the diff I have has a ratio of 3.75, so more suited to the engine than the S2 one but not as short(short? Long? I know what I mean haha) as the r230. The mounting points for the r200 and r230 are going to be slightly different aren't they?
[/quote]
I'll have a good chat with my contacts and see what's what, I'd rather try do it myself/in the uk rather than buy from the US unless it's cheaper.
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Looks nice but can't get wide open throttle. The travel on the cable isn't enough to turn the throttle body cam thing all the way round.
Thinking about trying to retro fit a honda cam thing onto it.
haha
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After thinking about it more I've decided to try turn down the size of the current cam (that's what I'm calling it now.
I'll be able to keep the pivot point, the spring lug, the screw adjuster,
I'd lose the progressive shape as what I'd machine would be a perfect circle.
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Bad news:
The only guy I could find locally who would wire my car has been diagnosed with MS, I hope he gets sorted soon, I don't know much about MS but I know enough to not want it . Hope he gets well soon.
This leaves me in a sticky spot and as far as I see I have no choice but to attempt it myself and draft in the automation engineer from work who offered to help should I need it, I bet he'll regret offering!
The only guy I could find locally who would wire my car has been diagnosed with MS, I hope he gets sorted soon, I don't know much about MS but I know enough to not want it . Hope he gets well soon.
This leaves me in a sticky spot and as far as I see I have no choice but to attempt it myself and draft in the automation engineer from work who offered to help should I need it, I bet he'll regret offering!