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Bourbon's S6000

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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 06:30 AM
  #651  
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Originally Posted by soulcrew
Wow, just wow.
It'd never fit in an S2, unless you hung it all outside the hood.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 06:59 AM
  #652  
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A friend has convinced me to splash out on an A/F gauge, I'm hoping to have a similar install to this, hope it fits.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 08:09 AM
  #653  
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Originally Posted by Carl Bourbon
It'd never fit in an S2, unless you hung it all outside the hood.
It might do. Behind the seats, with a lot of angle grinding and no bulkhead left.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 01:29 AM
  #654  
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Originally Posted by BuggyofMildDiscomfort
It might do. Behind the seats, with a lot of angle grinding and no bulkhead left.
I'm not even going to think about thinking about it!!

I have thought of my next project though, I love the idea of a quad rotor rx8 engine in an mx5 ...
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 04:40 PM
  #655  
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I had enough engines to build hex rotor at one point
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 10:07 PM
  #656  
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Originally Posted by BuggyofMildDiscomfort
I had enough engines to build hex rotor at one point
I've seen videos of them, they're huge! And the noise!
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 02:00 PM
  #657  
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Got my thick sump flange and engine mounts from the laser place today, the sump flange is ever so slightly bowed, going to tack it down to a thick flat sheet of mild (around 20mm thick) and progress from there.

Offered up the engine mounts up to a photocopy of my old ones and it all matches up beautifully.
I did notice when I compared the two new mounts together that there was a 5mm discrepancy in the frame rail holes between the two mounts, this is also the same on the old mounts. Completely missed this the first time round. I've worked out that because of this the engine is tilted to one side by 0.42 degrees.

This had me panicing at first but after looking at a protractor and seeing how little it actually is and then taking into account how far some engines rock when being revved I have since calmed down.

Any thoughts on this issue?

Sending the mounts away for anodising on tuesday (payday lol)
Air/fuel ratio gauge turned up today too!
Car should be getting wired in about a week and a half. Still shitting myself about the deadline.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 02:35 PM
  #658  
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Wouldn't worry about it, it'll lean more than that in a corner!
Our F20C is cranked over further than standard, don't anticipate any issues really.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 02:42 PM
  #659  
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Originally Posted by Carl Bourbon
Got my thick sump flange and engine mounts from the laser place today, the sump flange is ever so slightly bowed, going to tack it down to a thick flat sheet of mild (around 20mm thick) and progress from there.

Offered up the engine mounts up to a photocopy of my old onesand it all matches up beautifully.
I did notice when I compared the two new mounts together that there was a 5mm discrepancy in the frame rail holes between the two mounts, this is also the same on the old mounts. Completely missed this the first time round. I've worked out that because of this the engine is tilted to one side by 0.42 degrees.

This had me panicing at first but after looking at a protractor and seeing how little it actually is and then taking into account how far some engines rock when being revved I have since calmed down.

Any thoughts on this issue?

Sending the mounts away for anodising on tuesday (payday lol)
Air/fuel ratio gauge turned up today too!
Car should be getting wired in about a week and a half. Still shitting myself about the deadline.
Rhd and Lhd engine mounts are different,the idea being to bias the gearstick towards the driver.I have Lhd mounts in my car,not through any clever though process, purely because I got them with all the other bits I got from America.... But there is an advantage with mine,it gives a small amount of extra room for the Turbo,exhaust mani,down pipe.
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 02:50 PM
  #660  
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Originally Posted by mr-pitts
Originally Posted by Carl Bourbon' timestamp='1403215205' post='23210365
Got my thick sump flange and engine mounts from the laser place today, the sump flange is ever so slightly bowed, going to tack it down to a thick flat sheet of mild (around 20mm thick) and progress from there.

Offered up the engine mounts up to a photocopy of my old onesand it all matches up beautifully.
I did notice when I compared the two new mounts together that there was a 5mm discrepancy in the frame rail holes between the two mounts, this is also the same on the old mounts. Completely missed this the first time round. I've worked out that because of this the engine is tilted to one side by 0.42 degrees.

This had me panicing at first but after looking at a protractor and seeing how little it actually is and then taking into account how far some engines rock when being revved I have since calmed down.

Any thoughts on this issue?

Sending the mounts away for anodising on tuesday (payday lol)
Air/fuel ratio gauge turned up today too!
Car should be getting wired in about a week and a half. Still shitting myself about the deadline.
Rhd and Lhd engine mounts are different,the idea being to bias the gearstick towards the driver.I have Lhd mounts in my car,not through any clever though process, purely because I got them with all the other bits I got from America.... But there is an advantage with mine,it gives a small amount of extra room for the Turbo,exhaust mani,down pipe.
I'm not using the honda mounts at all, like yourself I'm doing it American style and those mutters have solid mounted their V8s to the frame rails!
I did think about using them and making a bracket but there is virtually no room :/ plus I had these motor plates anyway so why re-invent the wheel?

But I didn't know the RHD/LHD mounts were different! Does it shift the engine to the side or tilt it?
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