Clicking Clunking At rear Passenger - HUB? / BRAKE? HELP!
06-01-2016, 12:36 PM
#11
^ if the Frame was bent and an arm then you will have bent the hub, fitting the adjustable arms has just masked the problem when the hub gets bent it pushes the hear shield closer to the disc at the toe arm point, your disc also sounds warped.The toe figures should also be as even as poss the ones you have will put the thrust line out giving you the off centre steering wheel,
Have you got set back figures as these can help identify a bent hub
06-01-2016, 02:20 PM
#12
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Cheers guys,
I'll check with guard off once brakes arrive. Tighten Nut, check subframe alignment
Then I'll keep my eyes peeled for a hub Dillion. Whats the going rate on these? could you tell yours was bent? or do you know because changing it fixed it?
I'm about to order brakes, and thought to get discs & pads from mtec £205 for all. Vented and dimpled, and brembo pads? If anyone wishes to give any advice, I'd appreciate it.
Basically got 4 things (some maybe related) , slightly bad alignment, rotation clunking/knocking LR, a rattly brake with bad wear LR and a slight pull to the left.
I'm starting to loose hope, but the advice and suggestions gives some faith for now
- thank you.
I'll check with guard off once brakes arrive. Tighten Nut, check subframe alignment
Then I'll keep my eyes peeled for a hub Dillion. Whats the going rate on these? could you tell yours was bent? or do you know because changing it fixed it?
I'm about to order brakes, and thought to get discs & pads from mtec £205 for all. Vented and dimpled, and brembo pads? If anyone wishes to give any advice, I'd appreciate it.
Basically got 4 things (some maybe related) , slightly bad alignment, rotation clunking/knocking LR, a rattly brake with bad wear LR and a slight pull to the left.
I'm starting to loose hope, but the advice and suggestions gives some faith for now
- thank you.
06-02-2016, 12:01 AM
#13
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Thanks again everybody.
This is the info I wanted to hear!
Bad move was me getting toe rods before doing hub, but again this was advised by professionals, and all a long after reading things on s2k i felt i knew better and it was the hub.
Fingers crossed, i hope changing the hub is the end of this saga.
Daytona-Dav2: masked is a good word, and fully agree. No back figures prior to frame changed. I did have some before toe arms but misplaced. I know camber at RL was about 3.00 and toe about 2.00 (this was apparently after subframe fitment place aligned and all was perfect ha) He blamed poly bushes settling in, but I am clueless on if thats true or not.
Dillon_93 : cheers for confirmation. Makes me definitely want to put disc and hub on!
BRAKES ORDERING TODAY: any reason not to get what I have suggested. A piece of me thinks just get OEM rear discs for more money? is there a good reason too? I do want to start tracking my car, and actually looking to one day in next few years have a dedicated track car like a atom, once I learn to keep this on the road first!!!
This is the info I wanted to hear!
Bad move was me getting toe rods before doing hub, but again this was advised by professionals, and all a long after reading things on s2k i felt i knew better and it was the hub.
Fingers crossed, i hope changing the hub is the end of this saga.
Daytona-Dav2: masked is a good word, and fully agree. No back figures prior to frame changed. I did have some before toe arms but misplaced. I know camber at RL was about 3.00 and toe about 2.00 (this was apparently after subframe fitment place aligned and all was perfect ha) He blamed poly bushes settling in, but I am clueless on if thats true or not.
Dillon_93 : cheers for confirmation. Makes me definitely want to put disc and hub on!
BRAKES ORDERING TODAY: any reason not to get what I have suggested. A piece of me thinks just get OEM rear discs for more money? is there a good reason too? I do want to start tracking my car, and actually looking to one day in next few years have a dedicated track car like a atom, once I learn to keep this on the road first!!!
06-02-2016, 01:48 AM
#14
I would go with plain discs on the rear, ECP oem spex are fine. I've found grooved ones noisy on the S
They are cheap as chips.
Fit your hub first or you could wreck the disc?
They are cheap as chips.
Fit your hub first or you could wreck the disc?
06-02-2016, 02:05 AM
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06-02-2016, 02:26 AM
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Thanks again everybody.
This is the info I wanted to hear!
Bad move was me getting toe rods before doing hub, but again this was advised by professionals, and all a long after reading things on s2k i felt i knew better and it was the hub.
Fingers crossed, i hope changing the hub is the end of this saga.
Daytona-Dav2: masked is a good word, and fully agree. No back figures prior to frame changed. I did have some before toe arms but misplaced. I know camber at RL was about 3.00 and toe about 2.00 (this was apparently after subframe fitment place aligned and all was perfect ha) He blamed poly bushes settling in, but I am clueless on if thats true or not.
Dillon_93 : cheers for confirmation. Makes me definitely want to put disc and hub on!
BRAKES ORDERING TODAY: any reason not to get what I have suggested. A piece of me thinks just get OEM rear discs for more money? is there a good reason too? I do want to start tracking my car, and actually looking to one day in next few years have a dedicated track car like a atom, once I learn to keep this on the road first!!!
This is the info I wanted to hear!
Bad move was me getting toe rods before doing hub, but again this was advised by professionals, and all a long after reading things on s2k i felt i knew better and it was the hub.
Fingers crossed, i hope changing the hub is the end of this saga.
Daytona-Dav2: masked is a good word, and fully agree. No back figures prior to frame changed. I did have some before toe arms but misplaced. I know camber at RL was about 3.00 and toe about 2.00 (this was apparently after subframe fitment place aligned and all was perfect ha) He blamed poly bushes settling in, but I am clueless on if thats true or not.
Dillon_93 : cheers for confirmation. Makes me definitely want to put disc and hub on!
BRAKES ORDERING TODAY: any reason not to get what I have suggested. A piece of me thinks just get OEM rear discs for more money? is there a good reason too? I do want to start tracking my car, and actually looking to one day in next few years have a dedicated track car like a atom, once I learn to keep this on the road first!!!
06-02-2016, 03:07 AM
#18
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when I wacked my rear wheel the ONLY thing bent was the hub! you will most certainly have a bent hub if the subframe and wishbone got damamged... I took both wheels of and measured both sides between LOADS of reference points to determine what was bent... think I got mine second hand for about 50-70 quid or so! Good luck.... ps: its easy to fit. then go get a fresh alignment 
06-02-2016, 07:25 AM
#20
Oem hubs are expensive but these are a great price http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dorman-930...25.m3641.l6368