E4RTH WORM JIM

I did 3 back to back laps (Trackday) at the Nurburgring last week and oil temps didn't exceed 110'c

Water temp were rock solid as 83'c but my AIT's were in the high 50 to mid 60's.

Air temp was 32'c though.....

So a vented bonnet & water/meth are in order as I can't bear to install a different barrel type aftercooler that looks rough in the engine bay. My engine bay is just how I want it.

johnckeen

I too am after a base map but looking at the AEM software you can almost get there yourself by telling it you have ID1000cc, AEM map sensor which i have and then plumb in the UEGO and give it a target AFR...

Does that sound about all or am i missing something? I've never tuned an ECU in my life so don't trust what i say!!

markforrester99

In my experience its not as simple as that. I thought it would be straight forward but it wasn't so easy. The injector/ pressure calibration wizard doesn't work really because each injector has a different spray pattern and minimum opening time. You also have the added issue of setting the injectors up correctly according to battery voltage. Most of them come supplied with a chart thou.

You can set the target AFR on the tables but by default it will only adjust to 10% + or -. Having wideband operating during idle conditions can also cause some issues. Widebands have moved on alot and their response times can be as low as 50ms so they can make a crap tune good but you dont want them messing with fueling at the top end too much.

When i changed from 600cc to 800cc i used the same fueling values and trimmed them down using quicktune function to get them into the right area. Dont get me wrong it is possible on the road to tune it to 90% there and still drive it fine. In fact this is what ive been doing since i installed the kit and the car drives faultless and suffers no knock or any other stuttering or drive ability issues. This all takes alot of time thou and fuel spent driving around looking at datalogs. Ignition timing is where a tuner earns his money because they need to know how to get the most power out of the engine without advancing the ignition too much to cause issues.

In regards to the fuel tank filter, this is what im on about. Alot of people think that the fuel filter is the sock that connects to the pump but it is in fact the pump housing according to the honda parts catalogue

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-S200...gAAOSwHnFVrkGC

johnckeen

Ok, thanks for the feedback!
When i got my car, the first thing i did was replace the pump housing, sock and pump with a walbro. got it from honda for princely sum of £24

mikegsi

I had to fix a fault with the fuel pump in one of my dc5 - similar set up to the s2k in that its in a frame clipped into the fuel tank, basically the pump had come out of the mount and was floating so sucking air in as well as fuel. I've ordered a replacement filter but didnt give any thought to the housing - forgive me its been a while since I did that so not sure of the layout - but is the ebay link the actual full filter kit with bigger outlets or just a copy of the oem one at a cheaper price?

Re base map - if I can't sort something I'll have to get it trailered down to TDi North who tune it for me, could cost me around £120 - minus the fuel I would have used and its prob around £100 - money I'd rather spend on the car!

markforrester99

Well my car has decided to go full retard tonight. Started it and it refuses to idle just goes up and down constantly. Still got boost and drives fine but feels like a massive vacuum leak somewhere, I can tell excess air is getting in from somewhere as the wideband on lift off is reading AIR the instant I lift off the throttle. Tested all vacuum lines and no leaks. Throttle might be the issue hopefully as I have a skunk 2 one somewhere. What a pain in the arse, spent two hours trying to diagnose it.

E4RTH WORM JIM

Chill, it happens to us all!

Every time mine does it and I can't figure it about in about half an hour I start getting stressed and thinking "this fooking car I'm selling it"

markforrester99

Indeed Jim!

I found out what it was, the TPS is sticking and not return fully when the throttle is closed so it sends the message to the AEM that it doesn't need to idle dumps a ton of fuel in and makes the idle go crazy. When releasing the throttle pedal it's getting upto 11% open.

The cause of the said stick is...... water. Water injection is great but the S2000 throttle body doesn't like it in my experience. The water has also got behind the BOV so that had begun to get sticky. You did mention that it might be an issue but from everything i read they said inject post intercooler before throttle body.

It looks like i will be going with at least 50% methanol and spray in very small amounts as least that evaporates quickly and wont linger in the inlet manifold. You would think that 10 psi of vacuum when you let of the accelerator would suck any residual water into the engine but obviously not.

I am tempted to fit it closer to the inlet throttle body or after it using a spacer but im worried about whether it will get distributed well enough across the 4 inlet ports.

I have to admit the way it was idling it pointed to an electrical issue but it did cross my mind that it might of jumped the timing chain or some other damage. Glad it was something quite simple.

Define198

tried my best to use a full tank of petrol by driving slowly, i failed... but with mixed driving i have managed around 170miles to a tank, could easily break 200+ so guess mpg isn't all that bad, although noticeably worse than pre supercharger

johnckeen

That is quite bad... Haven't come across anyone with that bad MPG with a supercharger yet.

How are the temps?