Leak in Boot
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
ISTR you mentioning those in AJ's boot leak thread a while ago...I just didn't have a clue WTF you were on about 'til I saw them with my own eyes, then it clicked. Hopefully these photos do your argument justice
Still doesn't negate the fact that the rain rail had 22 rivet size holes in it
Still doesn't negate the fact that the rain rail had 22 rivet size holes in it
#12
Good write up as always though mate.
If only others would try and locate them with the bloody search tool lol!
Come to think of it, one of my trays was a bit loose and I assumed the bodyshop did it repairing a rear qtr panel once.
I wonder why the rivets pull out?
#13
Clear concise write up.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
The hood is now back on, with the rain rail secured to the hood correctly.
The seals can be broken if the rain rail is not re-installed with any amount of finesse. You need to place the rear of the rail under the seals, to prevent them from breaking off and ending up like mine were. This is very fiddly and takes time.
I put a big blob of silicone around the studs to encourage further watertight integrity.
The 10mm nuts then went on, and took some time...boy oh boy, I wish I had an electric Snap-On gun!!!
I have left the parcel shelf off for the time being as I want to ensure the sealant has fully cured before carrying out the water test described in the OP...I also need to clean the parcel shelf plastics, have a good hoover out behind where the vented panels live, and tidy up my heated seat wiring.
The seals can be broken if the rain rail is not re-installed with any amount of finesse. You need to place the rear of the rail under the seals, to prevent them from breaking off and ending up like mine were. This is very fiddly and takes time.
I put a big blob of silicone around the studs to encourage further watertight integrity.
The 10mm nuts then went on, and took some time...boy oh boy, I wish I had an electric Snap-On gun!!!
I have left the parcel shelf off for the time being as I want to ensure the sealant has fully cured before carrying out the water test described in the OP...I also need to clean the parcel shelf plastics, have a good hoover out behind where the vented panels live, and tidy up my heated seat wiring.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
The hood and rain rail are now watertight
The sills however...aren't. I've managed to dislodge the drain valve on the O/S. Short term measure = remove sill gromit, but I'll need to get her up in the air ASAP to relocate it correctly...probably at the tech day
The sills however...aren't. I've managed to dislodge the drain valve on the O/S. Short term measure = remove sill gromit, but I'll need to get her up in the air ASAP to relocate it correctly...probably at the tech day
#17
i had sloshing in my car from passenger side and have cleaned out the drain funnel and have tried to clear out the valve/tubes still no water is coming out the bottom of the system. it must be going else where. if the drain valve/tubes has dislodged how can i access them to reconnect them? also where are the gromits on the sills im sure if i unplug them water will pour out. thanks
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
The gromits are black circular things on the bottom of the sills. Get on your knees and look under the sills.
If the tubes are disconnected, you'll have to strip the interior on that side. As I said in the other thread, it's much too vast a procedure to document here. Download a copy of the service manual and take a look...ignore the steps where it says 'remove the soft top' as it'll be the lower tubes, not the drain tank that there will be a problem with.
If the tubes are disconnected, you'll have to strip the interior on that side. As I said in the other thread, it's much too vast a procedure to document here. Download a copy of the service manual and take a look...ignore the steps where it says 'remove the soft top' as it'll be the lower tubes, not the drain tank that there will be a problem with.
#19
Registered User