loftust

Removing your bungs will alleviate this temporarily.

The long term solution is to remove the interior as I did.
Then remove the metal panel under the B pillar (~ 6x 10mm bolts, both sides).
Using a torch behind where the metal panel was, see if the water is bypassing the drain tank and just coming out beneath it.
If it is, this means the rain rail is misaligned and you'll need to remove everything that I did. The clip I showed in the photo is probably not holding the rail onto the body, or it's cracked at the end, permitting water to enter the sills underneath the hood motors.
If it's not coming out beneath the tank, remove the drain valve in front of the rear wheel, and put your finger over the drain tube.
If putting your finger over the hole stops water coming out of that side of the car, and when you remove your finger, water pi$$es out of the tube, then you know that the tube/drain valve wasn't located properly.

HTH

Laserlady

First class Matt! Superstar write up. I'm even tempted to start pulling apart mine just to tinker ;D (I miss owning a classic car)

The Loon

I agree..good work Matt

Stoatmaster

Thanks. The rail is certainly aligned correctly, I had to strip the entire rear of the car when I fixed the missing rivet problem. Water is flowing into the tanks, and draining through. I imagine the tank locates onto some form of drainage tube on each side? How someone has managed to work those loose I have no idea, but it appears to bypass the arch drains and head for the sills instead.

I'll have a poke around on the weekend.

Thanks

loftust

I'm not entirely sure how I managed to dislodge mine

I'll do a quick dit once I've sorted mine and post up the conclusions on this thread

Stoatmaster

Appreciated.

TahirHussain

Hi, thanks for the help. i pulled out the rubber 'bungs' under the sills today, at least half litre+ poured out quickly.

thats a temp fix and i dont have no more 'sloshing' at least. now next step i need to get to the dislodged pipe/drain.

loftust

Follow this:

The long term solution is to remove the interior as I did.
Then remove the metal panel under the B pillar (~ 6x 10mm bolts, both sides).
Using a torch behind where the metal panel was, see if the water is bypassing the drain tank and just coming out beneath it.
If it is, this means the rain rail is misaligned and you'll need to remove everything that I did. The clip I showed in the photo is probably not holding the rail onto the body, or it's cracked at the end, permitting water to enter the sills underneath the hood motors.
If it's not coming out beneath the tank, remove the drain valve in front of the rear wheel, and put your finger over the drain tube.
If putting your finger over the hole stops water coming out of that side of the car, and when you remove your finger, water pi$$es out of the tube, then you know that the tube/drain valve wasn't located properly.

It's all quite obvious once you get the plastics out of the way

loftust

The sills are now sorted

It was a case of removing the drain valves in front of the rear wheels, and re-fitting them. I had obviously been a bit heavy handed when unblocking them last time.

It's a right PITA however. The car MUST be on a lift...it's just too damned fiddly otherwise. Even with the car on a lift, it's really awkward.

How to:

Apply some silicone to the inside of the drain valve...it's almost impossible without lubrication, silicone is a good sealant too
Gently pull the drain hose from the hole with needle nose pliers.
Push a screwdriver through the valve and into the bottom of the tube, keeping the tube exposed by applying upwards pressure. Release the pliers.
Push the drain valve onto the bottom of the hose, pinching it to match the elliptical shape of the tube.
Slide the rest of the drain valve on the hose.
Refit sill bung(s) if removed
Pour water over the hood, watch for water emanating from the drain valve. If no water is seen, and when the sill bung is removed, water comes out, your problem lies elsewhere.

HTH

Stoatmaster

I assume the above is only possible if the interior has been removed, or is there enough visibility manage this from underneath. (Although I doubt it!)

Edit - Reread the description. It sounds like the bottom of the hose is likely to separate at the wheel arch level, so is a possible go-er without tearing the interior out again.

Thanks for that, I'll try and have a go this week!