MB's modification thread...
Just go for CT supercharge, is the easiest way to get power! stock setup is already 300bhp and with the smallest pulley you can get 450bhp.
Also stock setup comes with 6 months warrantee, I don't think any other Supercharge company in the world can offer this.
Also stock setup comes with 6 months warrantee, I don't think any other Supercharge company in the world can offer this.
Sorry Mikey, I get what you are saying now. I will look under the car alter and see if there is a nut onder there. I thought you meant a blind nut.
Hi Dixon, i'm not a fan of the Comptech though mainly due to the size and weight of it over the front nose. I just prefer the Rotrex as it's lighter and a bit more compact.
Do you have any plans to track / race an S2000, out of interest?
Brakes are spot on now i've turned them round
Hi Dixon, i'm not a fan of the Comptech though mainly due to the size and weight of it over the front nose. I just prefer the Rotrex as it's lighter and a bit more compact.
Do you have any plans to track / race an S2000, out of interest?
Brakes are spot on now i've turned them round
The CT kit is not heavy at all, probably same as the Rotrex and also SOS have a optional supersize radiator for the charge cooler, you get cooler air temp into the engine = more power and more reliable!
Yeah I am selling all my race car and shell now, gonna be a S2000 race car soon. Will let you guys know when I got the car!
Yeah I am selling all my race car and shell now, gonna be a S2000 race car soon. Will let you guys know when I got the car!
Originally Posted by Dixon Motorsports,Jun 22 2010, 05:34 PM
The CT kit is not heavy at all, probably same as the Rotrex
HTH
Originally Posted by eSeM,Jun 22 2010, 06:54 PM
IIRC we compared the weights of each in the past and the Rotrex kit was around half the weight of the Comptech.
HTH
HTH
MB, keep working on the guns
.
Originally Posted by MB,Jun 19 2010, 06:09 PM
Adrian, no plans on that front atm. I'd like a Mugen wing but it wouldn't fit with the stealth ethos of the car
I've got a feeling that I might go silly with it before long though
In which case it would get stripped etc! But I have to remember it's pretty much a perfect compromise as it is, and if I spend any more I might as well have bought an old GT3 
Redun, if feels good where it is for now, but I might experiment. It goes too low the slider mechanism won't work but oddly it would probably solve the porblem of the bolsters hitting the tunnel, as they would drop below it. I think the slider bar can be bent to suit though.
I've got a feeling that I might go silly with it before long though
In which case it would get stripped etc! But I have to remember it's pretty much a perfect compromise as it is, and if I spend any more I might as well have bought an old GT3 
Redun, if feels good where it is for now, but I might experiment. It goes too low the slider mechanism won't work but oddly it would probably solve the porblem of the bolsters hitting the tunnel, as they would drop below it. I think the slider bar can be bent to suit though.
I have mine on the lowest which means I can't use the slider, not a problem for me as theres only me who drives the car.
You have a PM btw.
Agreed, you pretty much have to assume that any GT3 has spent a lot of it's life being hammered 
Ok a question for you brake people...
My Dixcels were great at combe, which is a heavy braking track. But I noticed they were generating so much heat I couldn't touch the wheels. Very very hot. But more concerning is they started to rumble after a couple of laps abuse. I hope they aren't warped. Seemed ok on the way home, just when they got hot.
Anyone else found this?
I might get a clock on them next time i'm home and just check they haven't warped.

Ok a question for you brake people...
My Dixcels were great at combe, which is a heavy braking track. But I noticed they were generating so much heat I couldn't touch the wheels. Very very hot. But more concerning is they started to rumble after a couple of laps abuse. I hope they aren't warped. Seemed ok on the way home, just when they got hot.
Anyone else found this?
I might get a clock on them next time i'm home and just check they haven't warped.
All you need to do is brake harder, R01 pad surface won’t melt until around 200 degrees, if the pad deposit on the disk is not evenly lay out, you will get judder from the non even disk surface.
Dont worry I am 99.9% sure your disk is fine, you just need to brake harder and later, once you got them bedded in properly the temperature will stay much lower.
Dixon
Dont worry I am 99.9% sure your disk is fine, you just need to brake harder and later, once you got them bedded in properly the temperature will stay much lower.
Dixon







