New tyres fitted.....but...
#11
looks like the paint is flaking off from a poor refurb
#12
Tyre fitting always risk damaging the paint on the rim. Even the best fitters will end up damaging the paint every now and then. If you ever watch them try and remove a tyre from a wheel especially one with a reinforced side wall its alot of effort. I find it hard to criticise people without ever trying to do the job myself. Having watched them a few times its never going to be 100% damage free.
This!
I fit tyres all day and some are an absolute pig to get off the rim
Like Marks says, no matter how much effort you put in to not damaging the rim sometimes you end up with a tiny mark or two
We always point out to each other about any damage already on the wheel before we take the tyre off incase we get that one customer who is an absolute d*ck who blames us for damage already on the wheel (believe me, it happens)
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by markforrester99' timestamp='1432856404' post='23628396
Tyre fitting always risk damaging the paint on the rim. Even the best fitters will end up damaging the paint every now and then. If you ever watch them try and remove a tyre from a wheel especially one with a reinforced side wall its alot of effort. I find it hard to criticise people without ever trying to do the job myself. Having watched them a few times its never going to be 100% damage free.
This!
I fit tyres all day and some are an absolute pig to get off the rim
Like Marks says, no matter how much effort you put in to not damaging the rim sometimes you end up with a tiny mark or two
We always point out to each other about any damage already on the wheel before we take the tyre off incase we get that one customer who is an absolute d*ck who blames us for damage already on the wheel (believe me, it happens)
think im going to point out the damage to all the alloys, not kick up too much fuss about it, but say that the car is now driving to the left with a straight wheel and that i want a refund unless he can get it all in the green as im going to go elsewhere for another geo! he did not clamp my steering wheel in place during the geo, he also did not adjust anything in any sort of order
also im pretty sure that the rear left wheel was green before he started the geo! just the front which was slightly out of spec, didnt get a before print out because he had to take a wheel off half way through to be able to get access to adjust my rear toe arm as the locking nut would not budge! i didnt even get a after print out i forgot to ask lol not that i should of needed to ask, every place i have been to automatically generic a print out.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just took the car to the garage, guy said he cant get it booked in today he does not think because the ramp is busy all day but if he gets a spot free he said he will ring me, also said he will have a word with his paint guy about the alloys. So will wait and see.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
This leads me to think that he just could not be bothered to fiddle about any longer to get the settings all green.
My car is lowered 25mm from stock height on OHLIN coilovers, but i cant see why he could not get everything in the green with all adjusters free and the extra adjustment given by the toe arms? they were all in spec when i had it geo'd with the new bushs in January before lowering.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
I didnt get one :/ i was in a rush as i wanted to get back to work as i was having it done in my work time and i forgot to ask for print out, pretty sure the drivers side rear camber was -1.4(green) and the passenger side rear was -2.0(red) everything else was green on the computer, he claimed that this was such a small amount and would not cause any issues anyway and it was the best he could do, dont know if that is true? would the camber cause any problems?
#19
Registered User
Is your car a pre-facelift?
I believe when you lower a pre-facelift it's difficult to get near OEM camber; does seem odd why you can get within OEM tolerance on the N/S though. To get to the bottom of why would require time and investigation.
That said, I run -2 at the back out of choice, and -1 at the front (many call this a fast road setup).
The red/green aspect is the OEM tolerance levels; its okay to go outside of these tolerances provided you know what your asking for and you want that setup.
I *think* I would be able to tell the difference between a car with -1.4 NS and -2 OS; but then only a blind test would reveal whether my bum is actually that sensitive or not!!
Never-the-less, I'd rather the rear to be consistent at -2 on both sides, than have -1.4 / -2; but I would couple the -2 rear wth a -1 front for sure.
HTH
I believe when you lower a pre-facelift it's difficult to get near OEM camber; does seem odd why you can get within OEM tolerance on the N/S though. To get to the bottom of why would require time and investigation.
That said, I run -2 at the back out of choice, and -1 at the front (many call this a fast road setup).
The red/green aspect is the OEM tolerance levels; its okay to go outside of these tolerances provided you know what your asking for and you want that setup.
I *think* I would be able to tell the difference between a car with -1.4 NS and -2 OS; but then only a blind test would reveal whether my bum is actually that sensitive or not!!
Never-the-less, I'd rather the rear to be consistent at -2 on both sides, than have -1.4 / -2; but I would couple the -2 rear wth a -1 front for sure.
HTH
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Is your car a pre-facelift?
I believe when you lower a pre-facelift it's difficult to get near OEM camber; does seem odd why you can get within OEM tolerance on the N/S though. To get to the bottom of why would require time and investigation.
That said, I run -2 at the back out of choice, and -1 at the front (many call this a fast road setup).
The red/green aspect is the OEM tolerance levels; its okay to go outside of these tolerances provided you know what your asking for and you want that setup.
I *think* I would be able to tell the difference between a car with -1.4 NS and -2 OS; but then only a blind test would reveal whether my bum is actually that sensitive or not!!
Never-the-less, I'd rather the rear to be consistent at -2 on both sides, than have -1.4 / -2; but I would couple the -2 rear wth a -1 front for sure.
HTH
I believe when you lower a pre-facelift it's difficult to get near OEM camber; does seem odd why you can get within OEM tolerance on the N/S though. To get to the bottom of why would require time and investigation.
That said, I run -2 at the back out of choice, and -1 at the front (many call this a fast road setup).
The red/green aspect is the OEM tolerance levels; its okay to go outside of these tolerances provided you know what your asking for and you want that setup.
I *think* I would be able to tell the difference between a car with -1.4 NS and -2 OS; but then only a blind test would reveal whether my bum is actually that sensitive or not!!
Never-the-less, I'd rather the rear to be consistent at -2 on both sides, than have -1.4 / -2; but I would couple the -2 rear wth a -1 front for sure.
HTH
so if i have the same problem with the new garage shall i ask for -2 on the rear and -1 on the fronts, running the rest of toe and caster to oem facelift spec?