Rear subframe
#1
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Thread Starter
Rear subframe
I have a few questions on the rear subframe on the S2000.
Firstly, has anybody replaced or had replaced their rear subframe ?
If so I'd be interested to know how long a job it is labour wise.
Secondly, is the rear subframe the same across all models of S2000 or has it been revised with the various models ?
Thanks.
Firstly, has anybody replaced or had replaced their rear subframe ?
If so I'd be interested to know how long a job it is labour wise.
Secondly, is the rear subframe the same across all models of S2000 or has it been revised with the various models ?
Thanks.
#2
Had mine replaced & yes it's a fairly big job. A scissor-style jack will be particularly helpful.
There is a difference between ap1 & 2 frames, the rear upper wishbone mounts are spaced differently i believe.
I'm in the throws of getting a duplicate to have it welded up (strengthened) and then powder coated and identifying that the frame i was buying was an ap1 has taken some time.
I'd say it'd take a trained pro around 6-7 hours to do it from start to finish. For me, probably put aside a weekend.
There is a difference between ap1 & 2 frames, the rear upper wishbone mounts are spaced differently i believe.
I'm in the throws of getting a duplicate to have it welded up (strengthened) and then powder coated and identifying that the frame i was buying was an ap1 has taken some time.
I'd say it'd take a trained pro around 6-7 hours to do it from start to finish. For me, probably put aside a weekend.
#4
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I don't believe there is a difference. Mine was changed a USDM rear. The only difference was we have headlight leveler and they don't
mine was siezed to buggery and took a couple of days
mine was siezed to buggery and took a couple of days
#5
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Originally Posted by mikey k,Apr 8 2010, 06:17 PM
Repairs not holding up Lee?
Anyway at one point though it may be a sub frame creak or possible the half shafts, thankfully it isn't.
I've only had the T1Rs on for 6 months or so (albeit through the recent pretty harsh winter) and I hadn't been taking best care of them. Subsequently they were more than a little seized up, but I am currently 'refurbing' them with a variety of products including Barry Scott's very own Cillit Bang, some penetrating oil and all other manner of stuff.
Needless to say the ball joints are all freed up and moving fairly smoothly now, just need to eliminate some more of the crud and light corrosion from them before they go back on the car, this time with a hefty helping of grease and a large amount of denso tape.
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#8
Originally Posted by LTB,Apr 8 2010, 09:21 PM
I am currently 'refurbing' them with a variety of products including Barry Scott's very own Cillit Bang, some penetrating oil and all other manner of stuff.
They are too important to have fail...
PS Cillit Bang is the new radioactive decontamination material of choice in operational nuclear power stations!
Totally serious - its cheap and safe and works better than Decon90 which was massively expensive.
Quite a reccomendation
#9
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by m1bjr,Apr 9 2010, 06:04 PM
Lee, bin those spherical bearings and order a direct fit 'Aurora' bearing replacement.
They are too important to have fail...
PS Cillit Bang is the new radioactive decontamination material of choice in operational nuclear power stations!
Totally serious - its cheap and safe and works better than Decon90 which was massively expensive.
Quite a reccomendation
They are too important to have fail...
PS Cillit Bang is the new radioactive decontamination material of choice in operational nuclear power stations!
Totally serious - its cheap and safe and works better than Decon90 which was massively expensive.
Quite a reccomendation
I've also had them sat in coca cola over night and you wouldn't believe how that has removed a lot of the rust and crud, amazing !
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