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UK & Ireland S2000 CommunityDiscussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it in the UK and Ireland. Including FAQs, and technical questions.
hi guys, typing this with my one clean hand. I have the susension half off the car but I'm puzzled about the front lower wishbone, rear bolt and bushing.
I have unscrewed bolt 3 in the diagram easily enough (Avonvale greased all alignment bolts 18 months ago) but not sure what to do next. The cam collar doesn't appear to want to drop out and I've been turning slowly bolt 4 (tucked away in an awkward position where I can't get a ratchet on it) but not sure to what end. Is this bolt holding the cam collar in?
edit: I don't think it can be, but it appears the cam collar just needs a good belt?
Once you have removed bolt 3 part 2 should drop out!
Try a flat tip screwdriver under the bit with the markings on while you turn it with a spanner.
The fact that it does not fall out probably means you have corrosion
The nut at the top is captive, bolt 3 screws into it not bolt 2.
I hope you have centre punched before removal
Bugger, sounds like I could have a corrosion problem
In the meantime I have a castellated nut upside down on a ball joint which I've popped - unfortunately now the nut will not screw off or even tighten up so I that I could pop the joint together, unscrew the bolt then pop the joint again
I've got some 3-1 penetrant spray which I've been using the drop links and other bolts. I've spent the last 20 mins trying to pop the ball joint together using a G clamp but I can't get a force accurately through the ball joint, so the G clamp moves off as the force increases.
Balljoint - ensure car is on stands on the front - stands on the longitudinal chassis rails protected with cloth to save stands cutting-into underbody sealant. Car must be off both front wheels so that the anti-roll bar doesn't make things difficult. Don't grease the taper! wire brush and copper-slip the balljoint threads.
Place jack cup under lower wishbone as far outboard as possible, obviously not obstructing 'thole the balljoint taper will protrude trough. Use jack to gently raise the wishbone guiding the taper through the wishbone hole. As jack raises suspension will compress through to bump. Do up nut! 56Nm torque if you can then try and get NEW split pin through castellated nut.If not, ten you can tighten upto 65Nm to align the hole in't nut with hole in't balljoint bolt. (2 sets 90deg to eachother). If still spins then build-up suspension with wheel, then drop lightly using jack onto wheel (just touching ground) . May be still enough to bind the 'bone on the taper. Torque up as previous.
Castor adjuster - spray lube into the gap between the body and the top castor nut.Lots of it - gravity will do the rest. Even better get straight blade screwdriver under eccentric cam of nut then spray in lube underneath.
Use 24mm ring spanner, better 24mm 1/2 drive socket on a breaker bar. Hit one way , then other. One way , other, One way , other etc.. Do NOT be tempted to put scaffold extension on to twist - you'll rip the very fragile castor bush rubber. I'm sorry but there is no way that the adjuster has been lubed - we'll see when it's out. If you can't budge it just keep soaking, I'll get my impact driver on it on the day!
VERY VERY IMPORTANT - if you have removed and lubed the upper wishbone bolts, just lightly tighten them. Lower car to ground drive forward/back a few times then torque them up otherwise the car will go up on its tippee-toes. 103Nm or very tight using 8" socket wrench.
Call me if you need further help.
Warmest regards,
franco
If and when you move the castor adjuster, use aluminium oxide paper to clean up then use copper slip/copper-graphite or MS3 grease to grease up the sleeve. Make sure that the hole it goes into is dry from lube (wd / plus-gas etc) then work the adjuster up/dn in out round an' around working grease into the wishbone bush.
Further annoyance - you will note the adjuster has flat on it end. Make sure the eccentric cam is orientated the same as the cam on the upper nut!.
Cheers Chris, will read a few times to absorb fully I don't have much flexibility re moving cars around and putting on stands - its currently on four axle stands, two front upper wish bones in the garage with an assortment of bolts for the remaining wishbones which are hanging in various positions in the wheel arches....
Plan is to get all wishbones off tomorrow, wirebrush, degrease, paint and allow to dry. Meanwhile I fit the Megan Racing rear tow arms and the steering rack spacers.
I have used a breaker bar to get some movement from the cam collars and fingers crossed the penetrant spray will work its magic over night
The drop links are also their usual awkward selves
04-06-2007, 08:39 AM
removing front lower wishbone?
etc.. Do NOT be tempted to put scaffold extension on to twist - you'll rip the very fragile castor bush rubber. I'm sorry but there is no way that the adjuster has been lubed - we'll see when it's out. If you can't budge it just keep soaking, I'll get my impact driver on it on the day! 
I don't have much flexibility re moving cars around and putting on stands - its currently on four axle stands, two front upper wish bones in the garage with an assortment of bolts for the remaining wishbones which are hanging in various positions in the wheel arches.... 