My alignment went out once due to subframe movement.

Fast road is probably worse than track for this due to the crapper surface. The spoon vid is also interesting.

 

Mmmmmm pleased to see you don't disappoint.

 

Poppy cock, public road surface and racing full chat for lap after lap are leaps and bounds apart, if your subframe moved then you must have being off roading rally style or it was not secure, and the spoon vid is up against Jackanory for story teller of the year,,

 

The S2000 is sensitive to wheel alignment.

All the adjustments have a range. Especially at the front the order in which the adjustment is done, plus where the adjustment cams are can affect whether a particular alignment is possible or not. Front castor usually being most sensitive.

Now the subframe mounts front and rear have a large tolerance simply to make them quick to install on the production line. The downside is that the subframes can be quite a way from perfect, which can make the later alignment difficult - especially if you want a lot of castor at the front.

You can simply measure, lever and then tighten the subframe as centrally as you can. With some care the subframes will end up within a mm or so. That is well within the range where alignment side to side will be straightforward.

Now subframe collars will align the subframes to the body just by tightening - the cones pulling the two into alignment. Somewhat easier than measuring/marking.

On the older FWD Honda cars, they had a similar range in the subframe mounting. Most of the time you wanted max castor, so just pushing the subframe as far forward as possible put it where you wanted it to sit.

The question of whether the subframes move under load... I very much doubt it.

Is it worth getting the subframes near central? In my experience, yes. Do you have to buy subframe collars to achieve that? No, but they make the process simpler.

-Brian.

 

Oh no it's the mythical "Fast Road" and it's now got a crappier surface!

Is it the one near Mordor?

Best ring East Gondor County Council and get them to sort it asap

As for interesting spoon video, this is much better
https://youtu.be/POvLaziUsTo

 

That IS well cool

 

Doh I meant driving very fast on crap roads

 

Wheels in motions did the alignment twice and couldn't explain why they couldn't match the front alignment to the previous time except for subframe movement.

Not really heard of people buckling wheels on a track day either.

 

Here are my 2 cents.

Ony of my friends fit them to his stock AP1. The result: less lost of traction on bumpy road and reduced vibrations. The suspension could finally work at a 100% efficiency rate.

I fitted the rigid collar kit to my S2000 MY2006, along with the full S2000 CR suspension setup (coilovers and swaybars) and a proper UK spec alignement. Before that, the car was sloppy. Steering was heavy and unprecise, there were a lot of vibrations, the ride was harsh but not firm (lot of bodyroll, dive at braking, etc...) and i experienced a lot of traction lost on road imperfections (suspensions were only 38000 miles old).

Now the car has jumped in another league. It drives and feels like a new car from 2015. There is no vibration at all. Every chassis component of the car feel connected. The grip has dramatically increased despite running the same tires and you can really read the road. Confidence in the car has been maxed, allowing me to carry more speed through corner.

I know that my car received more than just the Rigid collar kit. But my mechanic completely approved those rings and their utility to keep the subframes and the chassis centered. My near perfect alignement is a result of that. In term of increased rigidity, you can compare the rigid collars to some subframes braces. But their utility are way deeper than that.